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Routes in Elbrus

Elbrus. E. Summit through "Shelter-11"
Ekho Voiny Pass, 3520m T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Elbrus North Route Mod. Snow
Itkol 3531m (S-W rout) T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Maliy Donguzorun 3761m (S.ridge) T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mount Elbrus South Route
Terskol peak (3100m) T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 113 total, 5/month
Shared By: Vitaly Anisimov on Nov 12, 2015
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Description

The mountain is located in Elbrus region, around 1km from mt. Elbrus. The summit is well observed from Terskol town below, however not easy to identify from the long ridge.

The ridge is usually not covered with snow (except for in the winter) and the rocks are stable. The pre-summit rock wall of 12 meters could require technical climbing or could be passed by traverse.

Climbing to Mount Maliy Donguzorun is a great acclimation before ascending Mount Elbrus.

Location

The route starts from the top station of the Mt. Cheget lifts (~3200m), just below the east ridge of Maliy Donguzorun.

The rocky east ridge is easily seen and it takes 30 minutes to hike from the lifts to the low part of the ridge. The ridge takes 2-3 hour as an easy rock climb. Pitches and rope may be needed at the end of the ridge before the summit when traversing the pre-summit rock wall. The traverse is from the north side of the mountain.

Protection

Traditional alpine, pitches may be required at the final part before the summit. Crampons and ice pitches required in winter.

Photos

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