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Routes in The Dojo

A Kick to the Coin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Fight Dirty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wax Off S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wax On S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jamie Coin
Page Views: 120 total · 4/month
Shared By: BBQ on Nov 12, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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Painful, yet in a really good way.

If you have an itch to get on a true Spearfish Canyon 5.12 and want a route that you can have completely to yourself all day long, here it is. And the best part is, its really, really good. This is Indian Wars Wall quality climbing without the Indian Wars Wall. It gets my vote for the best 5.12 in this area of The Shadowlands.

Start with a sick flake feature. Enjoy a tricky tips crack set into the flake with feet that will keep ya guessing. Layback and climb a bunch of sick, small holds with occasional jugs. The business gets good about midroute with a buldgy roof pull set up with wicked mystery holds that pack a punch. ONCE THE CRUX BEGINS IT AIN'T OVER TILL YOU CLIP THE ANCHORS! Power over the roof, high step and crane kick your way to some huge pockets on the headwall and hang on loosely for the five ten plus climbing that feels way harder due to the pump coursing through your throbbing veins. Just like the climb to its left, this route is a thunderous fight all the way to the end.

Reminds me of, well...nothing, really...a unique climb that makes you think outside the box while you fight for your life. However, with that said, those who wish to conquer harder climbs, like Gabba the Nut or Prison Bound, should get on this climb as part of their training regiment. EXCELLENT FOR THE GRADE! Definitely an experience worth having if the Court House Wall is being hogged by a bunch of bullies and repeat offenders.


This is the right-most climb at this kick ass, little crag.


bolts. open anchors.


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