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> Hank Collins Memorial…
Tommy TwoTone
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.4 from 13
votes
Routes in The Hank Collins Memorial Wall
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A Big Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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A Little Tease S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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All Dogs Go To Heaven S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Animal Magnetism S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Entry Fee S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Good Die Young, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hank Collins Memorial Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hank Spire, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hanky Panky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Scruff S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sweet as Hank S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Teasing Hank S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Tommy TwoTone S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Chris Hatzai |
| Page Views: | 3,142 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hatzai on Nov 11, 2015 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Tommy TwoTone is the 100' alternate direct line located within A Big Tease on The Hank Collins Memorial Wall. Although sharing the first 7 bolts and last 3 bolts of A Big Tease, while climbing, this route proves to be a completely different animal all together. Not only are you tasked to climb the crux of A Big Tease, you are also required to pull a harder crux resting just below on the 3 bolt section of this route. These two sections stacked on top of one another definitely up's the ante, and the grade...
Start out climbing A Big Tease up to perma-bolt 7. After resting at the sofa jug, continue straight up from there. Clip bolt 8 and set up for the crux of the route; some trickery required. Once through the lower crux, it's hard reachy 5.11 face climbing up to what is now the redpoint crux of the route (A Big Tease crux). After you clear this section and clip bolt 11, climb the arete of good holds up to the ledge system above. Ride the continuing finger crack up clipping bolts 12 and 13 leading to fixed steel anchors.
Hate to contrive, but using the arete through the 3 bolt section knocks the grade down a letter or two.
The alternate line is bolted with black metolius hangers.
9 bolts, 4 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors
Tom Egan is the original badass who installed the anchors that are currently sitting atop this huge monolith. Put up in the early 90's, a top rope was left up for a couple of years, but no developing was done until more than twenty years later. Seeing as how he had so many different developing projects going on at that time, it's easy to understand why Tom never laid hammer to stone on this piece of rock. Tom's notable contributions to the park form a pretty long list. Liquid Jade, Blue Light Special, Child Abuse (Catalyst), a lot of the Upper Gorge, Cajun Corner, A Little Seduction, The Product. And the list goes on... Not only one of the most influential people i've met at Smith so far, he's also one of the nicest and most inspiring as well. These two routes are for you Tom!
Start out climbing A Big Tease up to perma-bolt 7. After resting at the sofa jug, continue straight up from there. Clip bolt 8 and set up for the crux of the route; some trickery required. Once through the lower crux, it's hard reachy 5.11 face climbing up to what is now the redpoint crux of the route (A Big Tease crux). After you clear this section and clip bolt 11, climb the arete of good holds up to the ledge system above. Ride the continuing finger crack up clipping bolts 12 and 13 leading to fixed steel anchors.
Hate to contrive, but using the arete through the 3 bolt section knocks the grade down a letter or two.
The alternate line is bolted with black metolius hangers.
9 bolts, 4 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors
Tom Egan is the original badass who installed the anchors that are currently sitting atop this huge monolith. Put up in the early 90's, a top rope was left up for a couple of years, but no developing was done until more than twenty years later. Seeing as how he had so many different developing projects going on at that time, it's easy to understand why Tom never laid hammer to stone on this piece of rock. Tom's notable contributions to the park form a pretty long list. Liquid Jade, Blue Light Special, Child Abuse (Catalyst), a lot of the Upper Gorge, Cajun Corner, A Little Seduction, The Product. And the list goes on... Not only one of the most influential people i've met at Smith so far, he's also one of the nicest and most inspiring as well. These two routes are for you Tom!
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