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> Granite Basin C…
> Lizard Head
Southwest Ridge
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Lizard Head
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Incisor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Southwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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West Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Rusty Baillie & Lovejoy |
| Page Views: | 792 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Lewis on Nov 11, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
Granite Mountain is closed between February 1st and July 15th for peregrine falcon nesting!
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
Description
This is a worthwhile route for those with adventurous spirits. It's a long way to hike and route-find through the washes and bushes and slabs for some short pitches on crumbly granite. I would not say that this is a route for the new 5.6 leader due to unprotected runouts off the belay ledges. Regardless, it's a fun way to the top of the Lizard Head.
Pitch 1: Climb through a dead Manzanita into the wide crack/chimney for 20'. Plug a #4 Camelot, then head up and right 20' through more wideness to a ledge. Place a piece and trend up and left onto a face with some knobs and small flakes for 25' to a groove - a little crumbly, but okay - unprotectable. You can get a piece of gear here for a final 15' section to the obvious tree on your left (85').
Pitch 2: Step back out right from the tree and pull some steep knobby unprotected moves for 15' onto the slabby ridge above. Follow the slab for 30' to a point - sling the point with a 48" runner (not much else here for gear minus a thin crack - small stopper); step down right and move onto the ledge that leads you traversing toward the obvious large tree in the corner (85').
Pitch 3: Climb the low angled offwidth for 20'(larger than a #6 Camelot) - its an easy layback... Then continue up the crack and gully to the summit (60').
Pitch 1 and 2 could be done in one pitch.
Descent: From the Rap Rings on the summit, rappel the West face with two ropes (maybe a 70m rope would do it???). Or, with a 60m rope, rap back over across to the top of Pitch two and keep rappelling down past the tree to the ground. A single 60m reaches perfectly and pulling the rope around the corner was fine.
Pitch 1: Climb through a dead Manzanita into the wide crack/chimney for 20'. Plug a #4 Camelot, then head up and right 20' through more wideness to a ledge. Place a piece and trend up and left onto a face with some knobs and small flakes for 25' to a groove - a little crumbly, but okay - unprotectable. You can get a piece of gear here for a final 15' section to the obvious tree on your left (85').
Pitch 2: Step back out right from the tree and pull some steep knobby unprotected moves for 15' onto the slabby ridge above. Follow the slab for 30' to a point - sling the point with a 48" runner (not much else here for gear minus a thin crack - small stopper); step down right and move onto the ledge that leads you traversing toward the obvious large tree in the corner (85').
Pitch 3: Climb the low angled offwidth for 20'(larger than a #6 Camelot) - its an easy layback... Then continue up the crack and gully to the summit (60').
Pitch 1 and 2 could be done in one pitch.
Descent: From the Rap Rings on the summit, rappel the West face with two ropes (maybe a 70m rope would do it???). Or, with a 60m rope, rap back over across to the top of Pitch two and keep rappelling down past the tree to the ground. A single 60m reaches perfectly and pulling the rope around the corner was fine.
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