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Unnamed 11+ (right of Maceo)
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in CLOSED FOR RAPTORS - Cat Wall
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100th Monkey T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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9 Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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[Redacted] T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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[Redacted] T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Abbienormal (aka Red Neck Rock Warrior) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Acme Plaque Me T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Alley Cat T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bachelor Party T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bad Cat T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bagheera T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Burl Dog T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cat Box T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cat Burglar T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cat Got Your Tongue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cat in a Hat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Cat in the Hat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cat Lips Kiss T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Cat man do T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cat Nap T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Cat Scan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cat Woman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cat's Cradle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cat's in the Doghouse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cat's Paw T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Catamean T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Catastroph T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Catastrophe T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Caterpillar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cathedral of the Mad Feline T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cathouse, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Catskills T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Catsup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cattle Call T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Choke Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Curiosity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dead Crow T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Deseret Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Doggie Go T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Doghouse, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fat Cat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Felix T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Flatulent Cat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Berlin T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Furr Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hairbald T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Here Kitty Kitty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Holy Catrimony T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Incredible Butt Crack, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Johnny Cat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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King Cat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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King of Beasts T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Kitten, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kitty Litter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kool Cat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kung Pao Cat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Line King, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Lioness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Look What Zog Do T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Love Cats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lynx T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Maceo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mad Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Meow Mix T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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More Than One Way T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mousetrap T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Take On The Flake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pinky Groovy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pit Bull Terror T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Platypus, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Puddy Tat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Puma T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pussy Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pussy Galore T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sabertooth T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Satisfaction (as in I can't get no...) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stokat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Super Cat of the Desert T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sylvester T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tasmania T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Tender Vittles T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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To Be Deleted (Unnamed 19) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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To Skin a Cat T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tom Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trip to the Vet T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 67 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 11+ (right of Maceo) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unnamed 5.10 -Route 60 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10: Route 41 ( 46 in 2nd edition of Bloom) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 93 OW T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whiskers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wild Cat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | N/A |
| Page Views: | 564 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Nov 11, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public will be asked to avoid activities in areas that the BLM has identified as having high potential or are historically known to have raptor nesting activity. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas for the protection of the nesting sites. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA), who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Melissa Wardle or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public will be asked to avoid activities in areas that the BLM has identified as having high potential or are historically known to have raptor nesting activity. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas for the protection of the nesting sites. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA), who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Melissa Wardle or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This long route has three distinct cruxes with rests in between. Start by scrambling up some easy 5th class to the right. You can protect this section but it might add considerable rope drag so its probably best to hold off till your below the main corner. From a good ledge climb through a technical sequence utilizing face features. This might be considered a mental crux since the crack is small as is the gear. Next tackle a steep and sustained .75 crack that opens to fist/OW, second crux. Some easier thin hands leads to the final crux in a flaring corner with a finger size crack that gradually tapers down to .4's before reaching the anchor.
Photos
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