Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Candyland Buttress

Candyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Robbins, Kirsten Davis and Thomas Koch, mid 1980s
Page Views: 430 total, 17/month
Shared By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Nov 10, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The crux of this route might very well be the first move off the deck. A few creatively stacked blocks allow for a move that feels like 5.6, otherwise expect a boulder problem. Once established at the first bolt make your way up following the obvious quartz dike all the way to the top.

Location

Look for the obvious continuous quartz dike on the right side of Candyland Buttress. The route starts as high as you can scramble though an additional half-pitch could be tacked on at the beginning. Several bolts mark the obvious start next to the dike.

Protection

The route has several solution pockets that accept cams from micro size (0 BD C3) to larger cracks (#3 BD C4). A single rack will suffice with a handful of quickdraws. The bolts are oddly spaced with some very long runouts. The climbing is 5.6 but the runouts make it a little more serious.

It appears that the route originally had a two bolt belay approximately 45 meters up the route. This is now a lone bolt that cannot be backed up. This leaves a few options. Either climb the route with a 70 meter rope which might be long enough to do the entire route (we had a 60m which was not) or step right at the first ledge and belay off the nice Pinyon Pine. The remainder of the route would likely go with a 60m rope. Another option which I wouldn't recommend would be to belay at the bolt above the former belay station and back it up with a shaky #2 camalot in a pocket a couple feet up.

No fixed anchors are available at the top but there is a great tree to belay off of as you step right. Walk off to the right back down the gully.

Photos

Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.6
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.6
A 70m rope is definitely too short to do this in one pitch but an 80m would get you to the belay tree. I came up short and belayed at a horizontal crack which intersects the dike 15' below the upper ledge (probably a 65m 1st pitch - would have belayed from the ledge at 50' per Teeters comment and the description here but it was in the shade). I ran a second 35ish meter pitch of decomposing choss to the shoulder below the summit blocks, the views are well worth it and the walk off is not anymore challenging than going from the lower ledge.
Without the rock stack the start is solid 10 slab. With the stack it's 5.6+ aka 5.9 for for one move. You can walk around to the 1st ledge if you want to bypass this nonsense.
A good intro to the area! Nov 21, 2017
Steve Skarvinko
SLC, UT
Steve Skarvinko   SLC, UT
Fun route, but emphasis on the runout. Sep 20, 2017
Teeters
 
Teeters  
 
A 70m rope can be used to complete this climb in two pitches. Deal with the awkward start and climb ~50 ft to a ledge with a tree. Belay this short pitch from this ledge - anchors can be made with mid-sized cams. The second pitch continues for roughly 60m from here to a crack where natural anchors can be made. Save a few mid-size pieces for the anchors. Walk off. May 16, 2017
Fun route. Nov 10, 2015