Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
Routes in Candyland Buttress
|Candyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Science Friction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Bill Robbins, Kirsten Davis and Thomas Koch, mid 1980s|
|Page Views:||430 total, 17/month|
|Shared By:||Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Nov 10, 2015|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThe crux of this route might very well be the first move off the deck. A few creatively stacked blocks allow for a move that feels like 5.6, otherwise expect a boulder problem. Once established at the first bolt make your way up following the obvious quartz dike all the way to the top.
LocationLook for the obvious continuous quartz dike on the right side of Candyland Buttress. The route starts as high as you can scramble though an additional half-pitch could be tacked on at the beginning. Several bolts mark the obvious start next to the dike.
ProtectionThe route has several solution pockets that accept cams from micro size (0 BD C3) to larger cracks (#3 BD C4). A single rack will suffice with a handful of quickdraws. The bolts are oddly spaced with some very long runouts. The climbing is 5.6 but the runouts make it a little more serious.
It appears that the route originally had a two bolt belay approximately 45 meters up the route. This is now a lone bolt that cannot be backed up. This leaves a few options. Either climb the route with a 70 meter rope which might be long enough to do the entire route (we had a 60m which was not) or step right at the first ledge and belay off the nice Pinyon Pine. The remainder of the route would likely go with a 60m rope. Another option which I wouldn't recommend would be to belay at the bolt above the former belay station and back it up with a shaky #2 camalot in a pocket a couple feet up.
No fixed anchors are available at the top but there is a great tree to belay off of as you step right. Walk off to the right back down the gully.