Type: Boulder, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,105 total · 10/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Nov 10, 2015
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Either jump start or stack a pad (if you're short, you may need two) to reach an obvious right angling flake at around 10 feet. Get your feet super high and pull off the ground with difficulty. Make a few powerful and awkward moves to establish yourself on the slab. Use thin crimps and delicate smears to make your way up the slab and gain the top out high off the deck.

There is a lower start that adds quality and much difficulty. Atleast a grade or two. Start with a sloping sharp right hand gaston seam and left hand to the left on a more horizontal seam. Campus off the ground a get a foot level with your hands and make a hard move up to the big flake, match with difficulty then continue up. This seems to be the more natural start, but is probably closer to V8 rather than V5.

Falling from anywhere on the slab could have some consequences. While the slab isn't completely free of lichen, it is reasonably clean along the line of travel and all of the hand and footholds that you need are clean.

If the start wasn't so awkward, this climb might be deserving of three stars. As is, it's still a challenging and engaging line that is worth trying.

Location Suggest change

Located on The Font Boulder. When walking from The Conditions Boulder, walk around the right side and this is the first problem encountered. It is immediately left of a tree.

Protection Suggest change

A few pads are useful since it's tall and you may need to stack some to reach the start.

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