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Routes in The Font Boulder

Font Problem, The V9 7C
Treadmill, The V5-6 6C+
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 179 total, 7/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Nov 10, 2015
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Either jump start or stack a pad (if you're short, you may need two) to reach an obvious right angling flake at around 10 feet. Get your feet super high and pull off the ground with difficulty. Make a few powerful and awkward moves to establish yourself on the slab. Use thin crimps and delicate smears to make your way up the slab and gain the top out high off the deck.

Falling from anywhere on the slab could have some consequences. While the slab isn't completely free of lichen, it is reasonably clean along the line of travel and all of the hand and footholds that you need are clean.

If the start wasn't so awkward, this climb might be deserving of three stars. As is, it's still a challenging and engaging line that is worth trying.

Location

Located on The Font Boulder. When walking from The Conditions Boulder, walk around the right side and this is the first problem encountered. It is immediately left of a tree.

Protection

A few pads are useful since it's tall and you may need to stack some to reach the start.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
I did indeed do it. I scoped and cleaned the slab a bit on a rope first, though. The hardest moves are probably getting established on the slab, but if you don't know where the holds are or what the sequence is, the slab will definitely feel like the crux. It could use a good cleaning, but it will be a lot of work. Jan 18, 2017
Christian, have you done this problem? It is on my ticklist, but when I checked it out today it seemed impossible and petrifying. Jan 17, 2017