Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Matt Laggis, rope solo. 04/06/98 |
Page Views: | 1,208 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Furthermore on Nov 9, 2015 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Despite being a bit dirty, this climb is highly enjoyable.
Pitch 1 - 5.8 PG-13 100 feet. Starting on the north side of the tower, grovel up an obvious wide chimney. The chimney turns right and narrows into a squeeze chimney. Continue upwards as the squeeze chimney becomes a stem between two towers.
Just when the route doesn't seem obvious, do a dubious traverse along the west face of the tower and belay at a small ledge with a wide crack.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 20 feet. Climb up the wide crack, only a few moves, to the summit hoodoo. An exciting mantel leads to the summit. The mantel must be down-climbed.
Descent Rappel 115 feet, webbing slung around a hoodoo for an anchor, down the west side of the tower. Be observant of the rope pull as there is a large crack system which would love to eat a rope.
Pitch 1 - 5.8 PG-13 100 feet. Starting on the north side of the tower, grovel up an obvious wide chimney. The chimney turns right and narrows into a squeeze chimney. Continue upwards as the squeeze chimney becomes a stem between two towers.
Just when the route doesn't seem obvious, do a dubious traverse along the west face of the tower and belay at a small ledge with a wide crack.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 20 feet. Climb up the wide crack, only a few moves, to the summit hoodoo. An exciting mantel leads to the summit. The mantel must be down-climbed.
Descent Rappel 115 feet, webbing slung around a hoodoo for an anchor, down the west side of the tower. Be observant of the rope pull as there is a large crack system which would love to eat a rope.
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