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Routes in Merrymen Tower

Robin Hood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Laggis, rope solo. 04/06/98
Page Views: 356 total, 14/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Nov 9, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Despite being a bit dirty, this climb is highly enjoyable.

Pitch 1 - 5.8 PG-13 100 feet. Starting on the north side of the tower, grovel up an obvious wide chimney. The chimney turns right and narrows into a squeeze chimney. Continue upwards as the squeeze chimney becomes a stem between two towers.

Just when the route doesn't seem obvious, do a dubious traverse along the west face of the tower and belay at a small ledge with a wide crack.

Pitch 2 - 5.8 20 feet. Climb up the wide crack, only a few moves, to the summit hoodoo. An exciting mantel leads to the summit. The mantel must be down-climbed.

Descent Rappel 115 feet, webbing slung around a hoodoo for an anchor, down the west side of the tower. Be observant of the rope pull as there is a large crack system which would love to eat a rope.

Protection

Long pants and shirt. A single rack with a BD #4 and #5.

25 feet of webbing will be needed if replacing the rappel anchor.

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