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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Matt Laggis, rope solo. 04/06/98 |
| Page Views: | 444 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on Nov 9, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Despite being a bit dirty, this climb is highly enjoyable.
Pitch 1 - 5.8 PG-13 100 feet. Starting on the north side of the tower, grovel up an obvious wide chimney. The chimney turns right and narrows into a squeeze chimney. Continue upwards as the squeeze chimney becomes a stem between two towers.
Just when the route doesn't seem obvious, do a dubious traverse along the west face of the tower and belay at a small ledge with a wide crack.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 20 feet. Climb up the wide crack, only a few moves, to the summit hoodoo. An exciting mantel leads to the summit. The mantel must be down-climbed.
Descent Rappel 115 feet, webbing slung around a hoodoo for an anchor, down the west side of the tower. Be observant of the rope pull as there is a large crack system which would love to eat a rope.
Pitch 1 - 5.8 PG-13 100 feet. Starting on the north side of the tower, grovel up an obvious wide chimney. The chimney turns right and narrows into a squeeze chimney. Continue upwards as the squeeze chimney becomes a stem between two towers.
Just when the route doesn't seem obvious, do a dubious traverse along the west face of the tower and belay at a small ledge with a wide crack.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 20 feet. Climb up the wide crack, only a few moves, to the summit hoodoo. An exciting mantel leads to the summit. The mantel must be down-climbed.
Descent Rappel 115 feet, webbing slung around a hoodoo for an anchor, down the west side of the tower. Be observant of the rope pull as there is a large crack system which would love to eat a rope.
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