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Routes in Main Slab

A Night Climb for Two Knights T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Across the Universe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Asteroid Belt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bear Minimum (to intercept Star Trek, and Gamma Ray) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bradley's Main Slab Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Celestial Path T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Gamma Ray T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hugo's Horror Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lost in Space T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sputnik T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Standard Route - Left Variant Lower, 1929 Route Upper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Star Trek and the "Lost in Space" 5.7+R Variant ? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Time-Space Continuum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ursa Major T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 470 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Todd Swain, Curt Robinson, Scott Metzger & Don MacDougal May 16, 1982
Page Views: 109 total, 4/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Nov 9, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Start as for Star Trek.

P1: Same first pitch of Star Trek (5.2).
P2: Follow Star Trek's 2nd pitch around the bulge (5.5).
P3: Follow the obvious ramp up and right along the top of the steep wall below. Belay at the highest birch trees on the tree ledge (5.4; 110').
P4: Continue diagonally up and right to reach the huge tree ledge (5.3; 150').

Location

Start as for Star Trek, up and right of Across the Universe, at the etched "ST."

See page 373 of Webster's 2nd (1987) guidebook.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Just a couple of slight clarifications: The "ST" is at the start of the 2nd pitch, (after the 5.2 pitch) and from the birch belay [end P3; but today there may be only bushes at the ledge, trees (and especially Birch trees) sort of "come-and-go" with avalanches on Willard] to the Big Tree Ledge is more like 300 ft of climbing (2 pitches) not 150 ft. However, you do get to a lower, smaller tree ledge in the "150 ft". Nov 11, 2015