Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 45 ft|
|FA:||Ken + Sharon Roberts 2015|
|Page Views:||89 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Nov 8, 2015|
DescriptionThoughtful stemming/bridging moves in the open book / dihedral.
Too bad it's not longer (though several other routes can be Top-Roped from same or nearby top anchor).
Up to the top of the dihedral. Step right, then up crack.
Variation: Pull the roof just right of the crack (5.9)
Finish just below left side of large ledge at base of Enclosure sector -- (as of 2015) possible belay anchor at some small tree stumps.
Could then continue up a route of the Enclosure area. If on Top-Rope, Sigrun's Choice is an obvious choice, but on Lead it's not very protectable. Instead could traverse Left to the upper Tower Wall and finish up the Manticore Upper Arete or farther left to the Manticore Face route.
Or instead of climbing higher, could descend the Tour des Picnics route.
. . (From a trad anchor constructed above this route near top of cliff (near the top of Sigrun's Choice or Manticore Face route), could also Top-Rope routes such as Picnics Arete, Sigrun's Choice , Manticore Dihedral, Manticore Face , the Rossinator, or Red Knob Madara variation).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
LocationNorthWest inside corner of Sunny Picnics area, at the junction of the East-facing left wall and the South-facing main wall.
--> See on Routes Photo
ProtectionLeading: standard Trad rack with emphasis on mid-size cams and stoppers. I did not find any use for cams larger than a #2 Camalot, nor for any small stoppers.
Top-Roping: Could construct trad anchor for top-roping near the right (east) end of the the top of the Tower Wall (like neat the top of the Manticore Upper Arete route).