Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Sam Enright
Page Views: 1,314 total · 34/month
Shared By: Samuel Enright on Nov 8, 2015
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This was formerly the "Cave Project". All the hand hold are decent, but the feet and body position are strange. Start at the bottom right of the face on a sharp, but good crimp rail. Paste your feet and surf out left to a slopey rail. Heel hook your hand and compress into a slopey, right-facing rail with your right hand. Slap your left foot up and do a pretty hard move up and right to another decent sloping rail. Do some magic footwork to get your right foot up on a incut foot. Then surf out left to a mediocre undercling. Walk your feet through, and set up for the crux. Get a drop knee on a big slopey rail and a HORRIBLE smear with the left. Twist your face into the wall and do a huge cross to precarious looking undercling pinch flake. While it looks scary, its solid. If you get here, paste your feet on some eh feet, and stand up really high to grab a hard-to-see edge with your left hand. Then, move out right to a horn feature to top out. Hard if you're short, slightly less heinous if you're tall like me (I'm 6 foot 1).

Location

As you are walking to Devils Den, you will see a large cluster of tall boulders on the left for far after you leave Boulder Natural. This climb is located in the right-most corridor.

Protection

Pads and a few spotters

Photos

Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Wow, nice job Sam! Way to open another good hard climb at pway. Cool name too, it seems fitting since you're climbing in the shadow of several huge boulders while you do it.

Now for those who might be confused, this is what the "Cave Project" was. Be careful because there's a boulder behind you for the beginning few moves and you could hit your head, so spotters are definitely a must.

So for anyone who's confused, here's some good directions Brian Nugent posted:

"From Mouthful of Chalk, just walk to around the corner to the right of the problem and look for an opening to the cave formed by the Mouthful boulder as well as 2 or 3 other boulders."

This is at the huge boulders you can see when you're at the Yosemite boulder. Nov 8, 2015
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V11
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V11
This really is a great boulder problem and worthy of all 4 stars. The committing end moves really make this a full value boulder problem. Definitely deserves more attention. Footage of this climb start at 3:41. youtube.com/watch?v=Q9HRSmh… Dec 29, 2016