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Routes in Round Pond

Type: Boulder
FA: Troy Fauteux
Page Views: 416 total · 12/month
Shared By: Troy Fauteux on Nov 8, 2015
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Sit start next to a rock on your right and pull up onto the good holds. Throw left hand out to the slopers and match. You have one good foot underneath near the ground. Bump right hand up to the better sloper and throw left hand to the far crimp, then bump left hand to the gaston crimp near the arete. Now for the crux! Right heal up on the bottom sloper and power your way straight up to the tooth undercling. Grab that get your feet good and work straight up.

youtube.com/watch?v=d8Utl7A…

Location

If you are looking at Maxim it is directly behind you. In the middle of The Hueco Problem and Wreck Em in your guide book.

Protection

A few rocks require 2 pads for this problem

Photos

Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
 
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
 
So I saw the slopers on this thing a while back and decided to try and make something out of it. I didn't know much about the routes around it or if this was already a route. So let me know if you guys know anything or if you have any questions about the route. Hope you guys enjoy it as much as I do! Nov 8, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I know this has been climbed, the line described in Bryce's guide climbs into 'Hueco Problem". This could be a new variation with an earlier exit. Thanks for adding it, I am looking forward to trying it! Nov 8, 2015
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
 
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
 
Matt, the line you're talking about is called Nervous Wreck and it starts the same as this and traverses across the same slopers, but then continues around the arete and up the Hueco Problem. I don't know the grade of it but I think it's either similar or maybe easier than this.

This climb is seriously cool though, a much better v6 than Atlas, and the move going to the tooth hold looks rough. Also it's called oyster's ridge 'cause the boulder looks like the back of an oyster right here.

Here's a video of the route (swear warning)
youtube.com/watch?v=d8Utl7A… Nov 8, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
It loos awesome! I look forward to trying it! Nov 9, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
Sort of interesting. I figured out different beta than Troy used in the video in order to avoid the heinous and awkward high heel hook rock up move. Some cool holds and a tricky mantel make it worth doing though if you're in the area and looking for something different. Oct 20, 2016

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