PRINT: Rock Climb North Summit - Regular Route, Central Coast

North Summit - Regular Route

5.5, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 1.6 from 8 votes
FA: Dick Houston and Fritz Lippmann, 1947
California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > High Peaks > High Peaks North > H&L Dome

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:

Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.

SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.

Description

Low angle ramp, then mantle over bulge. You can traverse across the to the south summit and the final anchor of "Feather Canyon".

Location

North face of the north summit of H&L Dome.

Protection

2 bolts, bolted anchor with chains for rappel.

All stainless steel as of January 2018.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Phillip Cheesesteak

Classic pinnacles two-bolt terror. Second bolt is an old quarter inch screw with a nut on it. Very runout but still a very fun lead. Dec 22, 2016

Peter B
Austin, TX

Currently has beautiful shiny new bolts. The 5.5 section is well protected. Dec 22, 2020

JC w KC redux

hey Peter - I replaced that hardware in January of 2018. No idea what route Phillip Cheesesteak was on but definitely not this one. He may have gotten on an old route nearby called Got You (5.6). There is nothing scary about this route and Got You is very nearby. Dec 24, 2020

steple

5.5

Mr. Cheesesteak's comment predates the hardware replacement, maybe that explains?

Let me know if the Protection description should be updated. Dec 24, 2020

JC w KC redux

Sorry steple but the hardware had been worked on long before Philip Cheesesteak's comment. I first led this climb on 7-7-12 and some of the bolts had been replaced by Friends of Pinnacles in 1997 (one anchor bolt and one lead bolt - the upper/second bolt mentioned by Phillip Cheesesteak). I replaced the other anchor bolt and both lead bolts with stainless ASCA replacements on 12-27-17 (anchor) and 1-7-18 (both lead bolts). The first lead bolt was a 3/8 inch split shaft (stud with nut) and the second lead bolt was a carbon steel 5 pc bolt (commonly referred to as a RAWL 5 piece). Jan 3, 2021