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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1- Unknown P2- Todd Swain & Rich Couchon, with Pete Coren 1976
Page Views: 246 total, 10/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 8, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Jon Sykes' "The Notches" gives this alternate a 5.8..... You decide ! (and we'll change it if enough override the 5.9)

START: On a slab, with bolts, which is about 200 ft right of the South (Left) Descent Gully, and about 50ft right of "Unknown #1 - 3 bolts on a slab". Above the correct starting slab should be the obvious "Bullit" Overhang. (see photo-s)

...and, yes, I do know that the projectile portion of ammunition is a "bullet", but Bullit is how Ed spelled the name. Perhaps one needs to "Bull" "it"...maybe to start P2 !?

P1 - Climb up the slab. Bolts are widely, but reasonably spaced (PG-13). At the top of the slab make geart protected moves up and slightly right to the fixed belay at the far left of the "Bullit" overhang. 100+/- feet 5.8+ / 5.9-n

P2 - Step left and climb the crack in the left end of the OH (rated 5.6 [?]), continue up the crack and then slighgtly left on slab to a gear belay (0.75,green to #2, gold, Camalot-sized).
130 +/- ft 5.6 - 5.7

P3 - Scramble left. 30-40 ft

Protection

Std Rack

Photos

Gunkswest   CA
Named for a long link of expended .223 rounds found at the base during the FA (presumably from a SAW) and the movie (well known at the time for its car chase). May 26, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
Probably....but without the final "t". (?) Until you provided the link, I'd always assumed the movie title was spelled "bullet", as in the projectile portion of ammunition.
There still might be something to the "bull it" theory, given the "5.6" overhanging start to P2. May 17, 2016
AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
I'm guessing named after the classic Steve McQueen flick imdb.com/title/tt0062765/ May 16, 2016