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North End Chimney

5.7 R, Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: Stanley Boucher and Vernon Twombly, 1946
Colorado > Colorado Springs > Garden of the Gods > North Gateway Rock > North Face / North End
Access Issue: 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This has sandy chimney climbing up the super obvious northern chimney.

Start with unprotected, moderate climbing up the start of Triple Exposure for 40 feet until Triple Exposure cuts right and this route goes left. Follow loose climbing past some drilled angles and a piece of rebar into the chimney. The second pitch follows a sandy chimney with potholes to a sling.

Rap Triple Exposure.

Location

Ascend the obvious (from the main parking lot) chimney on the north side of North Gateway. Follow directions to the start of Triple Exposure.

Protection

There is no fixed gear. Bring a standard rack up to #4 Camalot.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Twombly
Conifer, CO
[Hide Comment] My dad, Vern Twombly, says when they did the FA of this route in 1946 in leather sole army boots they had no protection at all. On other routes they found potholes to thread or spikes to sling, but here they found nothing. The drilled pins were all added later. Feb 1, 2017