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Routes in North Face / North End

Anaconda T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inferno, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3
North End Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Ryan's Inferno S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Triple Exposure T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C2-
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Stanley Boucher and Vernon Twombly, 1946
Page Views: 256 total · 7/month
Shared By: Zach Keskinen on Nov 6, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This has sandy chimney climbing up the super obvious northern chimney.

Start with unprotected, moderate climbing up the start of Triple Exposure for 40 feet until Triple Exposure cuts right and this route goes left. Follow loose climbing past some drilled angles and a piece of rebar into the chimney. The second pitch follows a sandy chimney with potholes to a sling.

Rap Triple Exposure.

Location

Ascend the obvious (from the main parking lot) chimney on the north side of North Gateway. Follow directions to the start of Triple Exposure.

Protection

There is no fixed gear. Bring a standard rack up to #4 Camalot.

Photos

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Greg Twombly
Conifer, CO
Greg Twombly   Conifer, CO
My dad, Vern Twombly, says when they did the FA of this route in 1946 in leather sole army boots they had no protection at all. On other routes they found potholes to thread or spikes to sling, but here they found nothing. The drilled pins were all added later. Feb 1, 2017

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