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Routes in Hall Peak

McCoubrey Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Quarter Life Crisis (Original East Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1900 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: FA Art Twomey, Joanna McComb, Joe Meyer 1975 FFA Katie Bono, Michelle Kadatz, Hannah Preston 2014
Page Views: 438 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Nov 5, 2015
Admins: Kate Lynn

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photo by Preston-Bennet Expedition CAJ 1992 - East Buttress is painted purple
It took two bivouacs to complete the first route up the biggest face on the tallest peak of the Leaning Towers. This ascent was also the sixth ascent of Hall Peak and the first ascent team were probably the first serious big wall team to succeed in the Leaning Towers, and without heli-support. The route was freed in 2014 and renamed "Quarter Life Crisis".
first ascent of pitch one of Hall Peak's East Buttress, CAJ 1975
Look for purple dashes and follow them to the true summit (Ha!). Please see the Leaning Towers page for approach details.
contour interval 20m
Art Twomey must have been the guy on the team who knew about the walls of the Leaning Tower and knew the best approach route. In the late 1960's he built a small cabin in the Purcells to meticulously photograph the wilderness. He then used his results to convince the British Columbia government to create both Saint Mary's Provincial Park and Purcell Wilderness Conservancy. Yeah, Art Twomney is the one who got the choppers banned! (Thank you man!!) Ironically, he died in a helicopter crash in 1997.

Maybe someone can tell us more about Joe Meyer. All I could find is that Joe was good enough to climb a 5.11 in 1977: The Womb @ Looking Glass, NC (Mountain Project contributors Rob Dillon, Bob Rotert, 2006)

The 1975 photo on the Pulpit page shows a lady bat-hooking her way up what is still the most radical unclimbed wall in the Purcell Mountains. Joanna McComb must be the first woman to have used Warren Harding's technique for climbing on a wall as big and steep as the Leaning Tower in Yosemite (still unclimbed). Also in 1957, she put up the first truly technical route on Baboquivari Peak, the Southeast Arete - Still the most popular route on the mountain (Stewart Green, Rock Climbing Arizona, 1999). She was called one of the best local climbers by Tucson's local newspaper in 1973.
photo by Ben Fairbank of Joanna McComb & Dan Jones on FA of Don's Crack, 1966, posted by Mountain Project contributor Charles Vernon, 2012






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