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Song of the Earth
5.10a,
Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches,
Avg: 3.8 from 8
votes
FA: Vaino Kodas & Greg Vernon, September 1986
California
> Southern-Wester…
> Hwy 168:Tollhou…
> Courtright Rese…
> Penstemon Dome
> Penstemon Dome (W Face)
Description
P1: Climb the awkward .9 crack/corner to a large ledge past an overhanging offwidth up to a thin the bushy ledge with a bolted belay.
P2: Perfect .9/10a face to a bolted belay.
P3: 10a face up to the dark, left-trending corner to a roof, then more face climbing to a bolted belay.
P4: .9 face to the final bolted belay.
Rappelling the dome requires two ropes.
Location
Shares the .8/.9 first pitch of Captain America to a bolted belay, then proceeds up the .9/10a slab immediately left of No Zukes.
Protection
Bolts, gear thin to 3"
[Hide Photo] Erik Johnson leading the third pitch of Song of the Earth. Photo taken by Ryan Nevius from the top of Punk Rock.
[Hide Photo] Epic Pitch 3
[Hide Photo] 5.9 wide left, 5.5 right. Both lead you to the OW overhang section. Worth noting that I had a #3 and #4 cam for the OW and was happy about it.
Bend, OR
Arroyo Grande, CA
- Two crack lines to get onto the first big ledge beneath the offwidth, both need gardening, we went right and I doubt that was the correct way (but it goes)
- Did the offwidth without it, but would recommend at least one #3
- Face pitch (2) was awesome, but beware still some crumbling edges and pulled off a nice chunk on the featured section
- Face to corner pitch (3) was really cool
- Pitch 4 had 2 sketchy bolts right off the belay, but you can easily jump onto the route to the left which had better bolts. However, not much is missed if you skipped this pitch, we walked off but I'd just rap if I were you (next party might want to bring webbing/quick links, not all anchors setup to rap, TWO ROPES if you want to do that!)
- Walk off climbers right, it's a little steep/spicy at points but very reasonable, head to the erratics and then down to the creek to a trail Aug 19, 2018
Atascadero
San Francisco, CA
Arroyo Grande, CA