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Song of the Earth

5.10a, Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches,  Avg: 3.8 from 8 votes
FA: Vaino Kodas & Greg Vernon, September 1986
California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 168:Tollhou… > Courtright Rese… > Penstemon Dome > Penstemon Dome (W Face)

Description

P1: Climb the awkward .9 crack/corner to a large ledge past an overhanging offwidth up to a thin the bushy ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: Perfect .9/10a face to a bolted belay.

P3: 10a face up to the dark, left-trending corner to a roof, then more face climbing to a bolted belay.

P4: .9 face to the final bolted belay.

Rappelling the dome requires two ropes.

Location

Shares the .8/.9 first pitch of Captain America to a bolted belay, then proceeds up the .9/10a slab immediately left of No Zukes.

Protection

Bolts, gear thin to 3"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Erik Johnson leading the third pitch of Song of the Earth. Photo taken by Ryan Nevius from the top of Punk Rock.
[Hide Photo] Erik Johnson leading the third pitch of Song of the Earth. Photo taken by Ryan Nevius from the top of Punk Rock.
Epic Pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Epic Pitch 3
From the P3 rappel. This is the trad corner of P3.
[Hide Photo] From the P3 rappel. This is the trad corner of P3.
Kelly following up to the P3 anchors.
[Hide Photo] Kelly following up to the P3 anchors.
5.9 wide left, 5.5 right. Both lead you to the OW overhang section. Worth noting that I had a #3 and #4 cam for the OW and was happy about it.
[Hide Photo] 5.9 wide left, 5.5 right. Both lead you to the OW overhang section. Worth noting that I had a #3 and #4 cam for the OW and was happy about it.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kyle Swenson
Bend, OR
  5.10b R
[Hide Comment] Great climb with some definite heady moments. There is a mix of crack (thin to large), offwidth, and standard Courtright style slab climbing. If offwidth is new to you, a #3/#4 c4 would help a lot. Jul 8, 2018
Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Did you climb P4, Kyle? We skipped it, but I've talked to someone else who said they climbed it and found the bolts on that pitch non-confidence-inspiring. I'm planning to get back on this route this summer, and would like to know if I should plan to try P4, or skip it. Jul 9, 2018
[Hide Comment] Good climb that could be great with some traffic/love. A few beta points:
- Two crack lines to get onto the first big ledge beneath the offwidth, both need gardening, we went right and I doubt that was the correct way (but it goes)
- Did the offwidth without it, but would recommend at least one #3
- Face pitch (2) was awesome, but beware still some crumbling edges and pulled off a nice chunk on the featured section
- Face to corner pitch (3) was really cool
- Pitch 4 had 2 sketchy bolts right off the belay, but you can easily jump onto the route to the left which had better bolts. However, not much is missed if you skipped this pitch, we walked off but I'd just rap if I were you (next party might want to bring webbing/quick links, not all anchors setup to rap, TWO ROPES if you want to do that!)
- Walk off climbers right, it's a little steep/spicy at points but very reasonable, head to the erratics and then down to the creek to a trail Aug 19, 2018
A Johnson
Atascadero
 
[Hide Comment] As of July 2020 the P3 anchor had 4 bolts. One of them looked okay. There were two pieces of webbing woven between the bolts and 2 oval biners set for the rap. The grey webbing was very tattered, but the black was new and bore the brunt of the weight. We didn't die, but anchor replacement would benefit the community. While that work is being done, the P4 bolts could likely use the upgrade as well. We didn't continue up P4 after getting a closer look at the first 2 bolts. Jul 20, 2020
Sean Neville
San Francisco, CA
[Hide Comment] I removed tat and 1/4” bolts from 3rd pitch anchor (6/27/21). Now two bomber SS bolts and hanger. I did not have enough quick links or chain so left the two biners from the webbing. Please don’t take the biners on the way up they are needed for rappel. I will bring chain next time. I also replaced the 4th pitch anchor shared with Captain America. I need to go back and replace 1/4 leepers (don’t fall) on the 4th pitch of this route. Jul 6, 2021
Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Thanks for putting in the time & effort to make those updates to the anchors! This & Captain America were high on my to-do list for bolt replacement, but it sounds like they are both moving in the right direction, thanks to your work. I look forward to climbing one or both routes again and being able to take them all the way to the top of P4 without having to wear my brown pants. Cheers! Jul 6, 2021