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Routes in Penstemon Dome

Captain America T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Zukes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rachel's Garden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rope-A-Dope S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Song of the Earth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunday Hoe-down T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches
FA: Vaino Kodas & Greg Vernon, September 1986
Page Views: 440 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris Bersbach on Nov 3, 2015 with updates from Kyle Swenson
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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P1: Climb the awkward .9 crack/corner to a large ledge past an overhanging offwidth up to a thin the bushy ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: Perfect .9/10a face to a bolted belay.

P3: 10a face up to the dark, left-trending corner to a roof, then more face climbing to a bolted belay.

P4: .9 face to the final bolted belay.

Rappelling the dome requires two ropes.


Shares the .8/.9 first pitch of Captain America to a bolted belay, then proceeds up the .9/10a slab immediately left of No Zukes.


Bolts, gear thin to 3"


Kyle Swenson
Berkeley, CA
  5.10b R
Kyle Swenson   Berkeley, CA
  5.10b R
Great climb with some definite heady moments. There is a mix of crack (thin to large), offwidth, and standard Courtright style slab climbing. If offwidth is new to you, a #3/#4 c4 would help a lot. Jul 8, 2018
Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
Chris Bersbach   Arroyo Grande, CA
Did you climb P4, Kyle? We skipped it, but I've talked to someone else who said they climbed it and found the bolts on that pitch non-confidence-inspiring. I'm planning to get back on this route this summer, and would like to know if I should plan to try P4, or skip it. Jul 9, 2018

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