Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches
FA: Vaino Kodas & Greg Vernon, September 1986
Page Views: 494 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris Bersbach on Nov 3, 2015 with updates from Kyle Swenson
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

P1: Climb the awkward .9 crack/corner to a large ledge past an overhanging offwidth up to a thin the bushy ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: Perfect .9/10a face to a bolted belay.

P3: 10a face up to the dark, left-trending corner to a roof, then more face climbing to a bolted belay.

P4: .9 face to the final bolted belay.

Rappelling the dome requires two ropes.

Location

Shares the .8/.9 first pitch of Captain America to a bolted belay, then proceeds up the .9/10a slab immediately left of No Zukes.

Protection

Bolts, gear thin to 3"

Photos

Kyle Swenson
Berkeley, CA
  5.10b R
Kyle Swenson   Berkeley, CA
  5.10b R
Great climb with some definite heady moments. There is a mix of crack (thin to large), offwidth, and standard Courtright style slab climbing. If offwidth is new to you, a #3/#4 c4 would help a lot. Jul 8, 2018
Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.10a
Chris Bersbach   Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.10a
Did you climb P4, Kyle? We skipped it, but I've talked to someone else who said they climbed it and found the bolts on that pitch non-confidence-inspiring. I'm planning to get back on this route this summer, and would like to know if I should plan to try P4, or skip it. Jul 9, 2018
Tommy L-D  
 
Good climb that could be great with some traffic/love. A few beta points:
- Two crack lines to get onto the first big ledge beneath the offwidth, both need gardening, we went right and I doubt that was the correct way (but it goes)
- Did the offwidth without it, but would recommend at least one #3
- Face pitch (2) was awesome, but beware still some crumbling edges and pulled off a nice chunk on the featured section
- Face to corner pitch (3) was really cool
- Pitch 4 had 2 sketchy bolts right off the belay, but you can easily jump onto the route to the left which had better bolts. However, not much is missed if you skipped this pitch, we walked off but I'd just rap if I were you (next party might want to bring webbing/quick links, not all anchors setup to rap, TWO ROPES if you want to do that!)
- Walk off climbers right, it's a little steep/spicy at points but very reasonable, head to the erratics and then down to the creek to a trail Aug 19, 2018