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Routes in Southern Groomsman

A Gentleman's Line T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c A1 R
Type: Trad, Aid, 75 ft
FA: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett & Roy Suggett
Page Views: 216 total, 9/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Nov 2, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The crack protects well and would go free around the high 11s. The moves out of the crack and on to the ledge are much more problematic. Moving left on the ledge gets you to another crack system that leads to the cap rock. A medium RP covers the last moves to the summit.

Location

See Sat. Photo.

Protection

Active: BD # 1s X 3, # 2s X 2, #3s X 4, # 5s X 2, # 6 X 1 and one Valley Giant (optional). Also, the more BD # 3s you have, the better you will feel.

Passive: Lost Arrows (long thin) X 2,
Knife Blades long X 2, and a full set of RPs..

Anchor: Two bolts with a short climbing rope attached to two rap biners.

Rope: One 60 will do it.
Roy Suggett  
 
Crusher and I agreed that this line could go free and be great. The sweet crack ends in soft rock and though is takes gear (BD 4s and larger) the placement(s) would not inspire you. So if anybody wants the FFA you might well want to place a 1/2" X 4" bolt on the face just above the cracks high point prior to starting the crux traverse. This would be just six feet of moving left where you can get some more cams (BD # 2,3, and 4) in better rock. It would be a proud accent! Nov 12, 2015