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Routes in Stovepipe

Dial A Muffin S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Doughboy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Flyboy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Footnotes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sine Wave S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tangent S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Chris Henze (1990)
Page Views: 37 total · 1/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Nov 2, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Dial A Muffin is a vertical puzzle with a friable start and anti-climatic finish. The sequence between the first and second bolts is as perplexing as it is difficult. After numerous hesitant attempts and a hilariously misguided attempt to aid climb, I resorted to stick clipping the second bolt to work out a sequence on toprope. The remainder of the route ascends higher quality rock but is nowhere near as challenging. Throughout the route the bolts forced me right while the features drew me left. While a fun puzzle, Dial A Muffin is in the vicinity of great lines; leave it for last.

Location

Dial A Muffin is the leftmost of three sport routes on the southeast face of Stovepipe. It starts with a high bolt in chossy vertical rock.

Protection

Approximately 6 bolts to chain anchors. The anchors are shared with Footnotes. Reaching the first bolt requires non-trivial movement over chossy stone. Some, such as myself, might opt for a stick-clip.

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