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Routes in Slocan Lake Bluffs

Big Easy, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: B Steele, 1992
Page Views: 168 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Nov 1, 2015
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best routes in the area. The chalk on the holds is hidden from view because the holds are so incut and that makes the route looks like a 5.10.

Location

At the parking area by the mill, spot the first route. It is a short corner with only one bolt and an anchor (Old Men Can Crank). It is unrated in the guide but maybe 5.7 and only 5 meters long.

Stroll approximately 50 meters along the old highway, past about seventeen routes to where the cliff gets bigger and smoother. The Big Easy climbs the right side of this high angle slab. There is a 5.10 direct start variation. The 5.8 start is just left. The 5.8 crux is at the second bolt.

For the purpose of locating The Big Easy, there is a much harder and shorter route just right called Salamander, 511.

The next route left, called Pi, climbs the center of the face but is only 5.6 (FA unknown).

Left of Pi is another fantastic sport pitch called It's A Mirekle,5.8 (FA Hammish Mutch, M Curren, 2008)

Big Easy, Pi, and It's A Mirekle are by far the most popular routes at Slocan Lake Bluffs. If you keep walking north, along the old abandoned highway, there are many more routes, some up on the tiers above too.

Protection

bolts only - about ten max.

Photos

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