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Routes in Sapphire PK

East Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI2 Steep Snow
South Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI2-3 Steep Snow
South Tooth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2
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Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2000 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,029 total · 28/month
Shared By: weber907 on Oct 31, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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This route lies on the prominent tooth or sub-peak to the south of Sapphire, lookers left as viewed from the 27-Mile Glacier bowl. Ascend Catchers Mitt basin and then drop into the upper bowl of the 27-Mile Glacier.

Climb an obvious coulior to the gain the west ridge of the peak (A1-2). Climb the ridge to gain the summit. When the rock gets bad moving to the back side of the ridge improves the quality.


Decent is done by short rappels off natural anchors and down climbing. Some the down climbing may require protection


Pro to 3", pins, couple ice screws


  5.5 AI2
  5.5 AI2
Climbed this route a few years ago. Saw no evidence of previous parties but no guarantee it was an FA as we left nothing behind as well. Can be a real choss fest in places but a nice day in the mountains. We bivied in the upper basin for the heck of it. Oct 31, 2015

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