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Routes in Warm Up Wall

Babushka S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Wind S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clip Jr. S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crowd Pleaser S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Seas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humbly, Mumbly, Jumbly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
String of Pearls S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wall Flower S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wall Flower/Welcome link-up. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to the Gorge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
What Up? S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 421 total, 16/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Oct 31, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

This variation combines the best parts of the two climbs (as well as avoiding the awkward parts of both), for a really fun route mix-up! Bring 2 long/extra-long slings to reduce rope drag at the transition.

Climb the first section of "Wall Flower", clipping the first 4 bolts. Clip the 4th bolt with a long sling, then traverse left and up 15 feet on easy ground to gain the 5th bolt of "Welcome to the Gorge".
Clip another long sling on this and continue up "Welcome to the Gorge" past another 4 bolts to the anchors.

Another option is to clip the "Welcome to the Gorge" anchors with a (longish) draw, then continue up past one more bolt to the anchors of "Sweet and Sour" (11 bolts total).

Location

Start in the steep dihedral to the right of "Welcome to the Gorge"

Protection

9 bolts, Mussy Hooks; to "Sweet and Sour" anchors: 11 clips, Mussy Hooks.

Lower off

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BAd
  5.9
BAd  
  5.9
Great link-up, Mister E, although you can't be trusted with grades--too strong, like bull. I'm callin' it 5.9, you sand-bagger, you! :) Jan 2, 2017
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Thanks, Jeff - I will add that to the description. Nov 1, 2015
Better yet is to take it a bit farther to the Sweet&Sour anchor. 2 more slings for this. Oct 31, 2015