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Wall Flower/Welcome link-up.
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 15 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,558 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | MisterE Wolfe on Oct 31, 2015 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
This variation combines the best parts of the two climbs (as well as avoiding the awkward parts of both), for a really fun route mix-up! Bring 2 long/extra-long slings to reduce rope drag at the transition.
Climb the first section of "Wall Flower", clipping the first 5 bolts. Clip the 5th bolt with a long sling, then traverse left and up 10 feet on easy ground to gain the 6th bolt of "Welcome to the Gorge". Clip another long sling on this and continue up "Welcome to the Gorge" to the anchors.
Another option is to clip the "Welcome to the Gorge" anchors with a (longish) draw, then continue up past one more bolt to the anchors of "Sweet and Sour" (11 bolts total).
Climb the first section of "Wall Flower", clipping the first 5 bolts. Clip the 5th bolt with a long sling, then traverse left and up 10 feet on easy ground to gain the 6th bolt of "Welcome to the Gorge". Clip another long sling on this and continue up "Welcome to the Gorge" to the anchors.
Another option is to clip the "Welcome to the Gorge" anchors with a (longish) draw, then continue up past one more bolt to the anchors of "Sweet and Sour" (11 bolts total).
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