Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 657 total · 16/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Oct 31, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

This variation combines the best parts of the two climbs (as well as avoiding the awkward parts of both), for a really fun route mix-up! Bring 2 long/extra-long slings to reduce rope drag at the transition.

Climb the first section of "Wall Flower", clipping the first 5 bolts. Clip the 5th bolt with a long sling, then traverse left and up 10 feet on easy ground to gain the 6th bolt of "Welcome to the Gorge". Clip another long sling on this and continue up "Welcome to the Gorge" to the anchors.

Another option is to clip the "Welcome to the Gorge" anchors with a (longish) draw, then continue up past one more bolt to the anchors of "Sweet and Sour" (11 bolts total).

Location

Start in the steep dihedral to the right of "Welcome to the Gorge"

Protection

9 bolts, Mussy Hooks; to "Sweet and Sour" anchors: 11 clips, Mussy Hooks.

Lower off

Photos

Better yet is to take it a bit farther to the Sweet&Sour anchor. 2 more slings for this. Oct 31, 2015
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
  5.8
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
  5.8
Thanks, Jeff - I will add that to the description. Nov 1, 2015
BAd
  5.9
BAd  
  5.9
Great link-up, Mister E, although you can't be trusted with grades--too strong, like bull. I'm callin' it 5.9, you sand-bagger, you! :) Jan 2, 2017