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Routes in Northwest Basin

A. Wexler's "Center Chimney" Grade Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
A. Wexler's "Right Hand Chimney Route" T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wild, Wild Life T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: A. Wexler et. al 1946
Page Views: 206 total, 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 29, 2015
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Consult with Park Rangers on climbing policy in such out-of-the-way areas Details
Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details

Description

AGAIN THE RATING OF THIS CLIMB IS UNKNOWN (Had to put in some rating, and 5.5 seemed to describe "an abundance of hand and footholds")

This is the chimney that "diverges diagonally to the right" from the "Center Chimney Route".

This chimney has is "very shallow...only 3 ft wide" and hence has "[more] exposure" but it is "well fractured [with] an abundance of hand and foot holds." It was thus "climbed with great rapidity for 300 ft to where the chimney opened into a large, recessed balcony about 75 ft below the summit ridge." Climb the north wall of this balcony for "20 ft to a platform", then they "pulled ourselves over 8 ft of dangerous rotten granite. A short scramble took us to the top."

Later a VARIATION was done for the "last 75 ft". Wexler and 'Chuck' "climbed the inside left corner of the balcony over several huge blocks and sloping ledges." Then a "violent" layback to overcome a most disconcerting pitch."

DESCENT- Descend "the right edge of the cliff with some rappelling in places."

Quotes are from a typed page of what was believed to be a private communication from A. Wexler to Bill Phillips, et. al. of the Boston AMC sometime during the 1950's or early 1960's. Later it was discovered that Wexler published details of his 1945 trip in 1946 Appalachia article.

Protection

Usual rack

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