Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: A. Wexler et. al 1946
Page Views: 750 total · 10/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 29, 2015
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details
Access Issue: Consult with Park Rangers on climbing policy in such out-of-the-way areas Details


AGAIN THE RATING OF THIS CLIMB IS UNKNOWN (Had to put in some rating, and 5.5 seemed to describe "an abundance of hand and footholds")

This is the chimney that "diverges diagonally to the right" from the "Center Chimney Route".

This chimney has is "very shallow...only 3 ft wide" and hence has "[more] exposure" but it is "well fractured [with] an abundance of hand and foot holds." It was thus "climbed with great rapidity for 300 ft to where the chimney opened into a large, recessed balcony about 75 ft below the summit ridge." Climb the north wall of this balcony for "20 ft to a platform", then they "pulled ourselves over 8 ft of dangerous rotten granite. A short scramble took us to the top."

Later a VARIATION was done for the "last 75 ft". Wexler and 'Chuck' "climbed the inside left corner of the balcony over several huge blocks and sloping ledges." Then a "violent" layback to overcome a most disconcerting pitch."

DESCENT- Descend "the right edge of the cliff with some rappelling in places."

Quotes are from a typed page of what was believed to be a private communication from A. Wexler to Bill Phillips, et. al. of the Boston AMC sometime during the 1950's or early 1960's. Later it was discovered that Wexler published details of his 1945 trip in 1946 Appalachia article.


Usual rack


- No Photos -