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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Beauty Mountain
> 5) Burning Buttress
East Meets West
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1 from 4
votes
Routes in 5) Burning Buttress
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Ad Lib S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Blood Meridian T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Blue Brains T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Broken Sling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Burning Calves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chorus Line T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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East Meets West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fade to Black S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Grace Note S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Happy Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rod Serling Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ruchert Motion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Spiderwand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sportster, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Steve Martin's Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Will To Power, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Eugene Genay, Rich Pleiss, Jack Nard 1983 |
| Page Views: | 921 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Oct 26, 2015 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Traverse left to right under a roof. The traverse is the crux of the route, and is often caked with a white fungus-y substance. Once you hit the ledge, the obtuse corner and face that leads to the top is cruiser.
This route is seldom climbed, but it's worth it, especially for beginners at placing gear. The hard part is down low, and can be completed with a boulder spot if need be, and the top is quite moderate and enjoyable.
This route is seldom climbed, but it's worth it, especially for beginners at placing gear. The hard part is down low, and can be completed with a boulder spot if need be, and the top is quite moderate and enjoyable.
Location
Just downhill to climber's right of Burning Calves. Look for a hand-traversing crack under a roof roughly 8-9 feet off the ground.
Protection
Up to #4. No bolted anchor. Take something with you to build one at the top. There is a tree right at the lip of the cliff that usually has a piece of rope or cord to rap from. Use at your own risk, or be prepared to leave something. If you see tat up there, be a good steward and cut it off and pack it out.
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