Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||wen u tryna stunt but bae's bitch game on fleek doe|
|Page Views:||481 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||TacoDelRio on Oct 24, 2015|
|Admins:||jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
One can split it into two pitches by belaying the second to the small oak tree anchor. This allows for better communication and doesn't reduce safety.
An excellent line that will present good San Gabriel challenges, such as loose rock, dirt, plants, and thoughtful protection which may prove marginal. A fun climb that requires good balance, good technical skills, and a little fire in your gut.
I had first tried this dihedral when Chris and I climbed Clown Syndrome. I only got up to before the first crux on the first attempt because I wasn't sure I could do it. It was dirty, had lots of miss and lichen, and was pretty steep. Protection was alright by local standards. Felt it was 5.8 up to this spot.
Came back with Justin P. and finished the line. The climbing is thoughtful and requires good balance. I remember a first and a second crux. The first felt about 5.9 going up and over the tiny roof. The second was around where the line moved left over a bulge onto lower angle terrain.
The anchor is honestly a pain in the ass to set up. I had a large sling or two around features, with a small cam and an inverted redirected #3 C4. Dare I say I wouldn't mind placing two camouflaged bolts for a belay/rappel station nearby, something respectful and purposeful in placement.
That's my memory, at least.
Anchor is terrible and complex. Use great caution. Two cordelettes would probably find their way into your anchor.