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Routes in 90 Foot Slab

5.6 TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.9 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Arete TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 172 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nick Black on Oct 24, 2015
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is slightly contrived, but very good! Climb the north Arete, starts vert with good holds, but about 20 ft up the angle eases off and the holds disappear. slap up the arete and smear your feet, and a few moves lead to solid feet and decent crimps. can also drift right around the blank spot, keeps it 5.9. Second cruxy section is the upper headwall, left if 5.10-, the right is 5.11+

Location

north arete of 90ft slab

Protection

Use the second set of anchors from the north, keeps you from swinging around the corner. Super long slings help.

Photos

Nick Black
Arcata, CA
 
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
 
Maybe harder for shorter people Oct 24, 2015