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Routes in The Hank Collins Memorial Wall

A Big Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
A Little Tease S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
All Dogs go to Heaven S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Animal Magnetism S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Entry Fee S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Die Young, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hank Collins Memorial Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hank Spire, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanky Panky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet as Hank S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tommy TwoTone S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Chris Hatzai
Page Views: 2,567 total · 69/month
Shared By: Chris Hatzai on Oct 24, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug Details

A Big Tease

A Big Tease is located at the center of The Hank Collins Memorial Wall to the right side base of The Monument at Smith Rock State Park. This route is a full 30 meter pitch with a variety of climbing styles and sections. The full 100' pitch offers a little bit of everything for everyone. Featuring a bouldery start, jugs, crack, roof, traversing, crimps, face climbing, spaced bolts and airy falls this climb is sure to please.

The climb starts out on good holds clipping perm-bolt 1. After clipping bolt 2, you are met with a bouldery section through the worst rock on the route. Pull through the bouldery section and climb on good holds up to bolt 4 and rest at a jug on a big ledge. After you clip bolt 5, start to work your way up a fine crack with conveniently placed hand holds. This is where the real climbing begins.
Clip perma-bolt 6 and slap and layback your way through the roof section. Rest at the love seat sized detached flake just above the roof and prepare to traverse a crack system leading to the left. Start making the traverse, having a high and low option to climb (the lower route being harder). Clip bolts 8 and 9 working your way left and up to a good rest. After clipping bolt 10, work up and right and prepare for the crux of the route. Climb through the crux on ok crimps, clip perma-bolt 11 and work your way up to the next ledge. Ride the continuing finger crack clipping bolts 12 and 13 to the fixed anchors.

9 bolts, 4 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors

If this route is being back cleaned while lowering, it helps to use the long fixed draws as directionals.


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