Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Chris Hatzai
Page Views: 4,252 total · 63/month
Shared By: Chris Hatzai on Oct 24, 2015
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

A Big Tease

A Big Tease is located at the center of The Hank Collins Memorial Wall to the right side base of The Monument at Smith Rock State Park. This route is a full 30 meter pitch with a variety of climbing styles and sections. The full 100' pitch offers a little bit of everything for everyone. Featuring a bouldery start, jugs, crack, roof, traversing, crimps, face climbing, spaced bolts and airy falls this climb is sure to please.

The climb starts out on good holds. After clipping bolt 2, you are met with a bouldery section through the worst rock on the route. Pull through the bouldery section and climb on good holds up to bolt 4 and rest at a jug on a big ledge. After you clip bolt 5, start to work your way up a fine crack with conveniently placed hand holds. This is where the real climbing begins.
Clip perma-bolt 6 and slap and layback your way through the roof section. Rest at the love seat sized detached flake just above the roof and prepare to traverse a crack system leading to the left. Start making the traverse, having a high and low option to climb (the lower path being harder). Clip bolts 8 and 9 working your way left and up to a good rest. After clipping bolt 10, work up and right and prepare for the crux of the route. Climb through the crux on ok crimps, clip perma-bolt 11 and work your way up to the next ledge. Ride the continuing finger crack clipping bolts 12 and 13 to the fixed anchors.

10 bolts, 3 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors

If this route is being back cleaned while lowering, it helps to use the long fixed draws as directionals.

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