Avg: 3.8 from 32 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft (30 m)|
|Page Views:||5,372 total · 56/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Hatzai on Oct 24, 2015|
|Admins:||Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
The climb starts out on good holds. After clipping bolt 2, you are met with a bouldery section through the worst rock on the route. Pull through the bouldery section and climb on good holds up to bolt 4 and rest at a jug on a big ledge. After you clip bolt 5, start to work your way up a fine crack with conveniently placed hand holds. This is where the real climbing begins.
Clip perma-bolt 6 and slap and layback your way through the roof section. Rest at the love seat sized detached flake just above the roof and prepare to traverse a crack system leading to the left. Start making the traverse, having a high and low option to climb (the lower path being harder). Clip bolts 8 and 9 working your way left and up to a good rest. After clipping bolt 10, work up and right and prepare for the crux of the route. Climb through the crux on ok crimps, clip perma-bolt 11 and work your way up to the next ledge. Ride the continuing finger crack clipping bolts 12 and 13 to the fixed anchors.
10 bolts, 3 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors
If this route is being back cleaned while lowering, it helps to use the long fixed draws as directionals.