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Too Much Good Stuff

5.11a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 49 votes
FA: Brad Johnson, John Robinson
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Bowman/Emeralds > Emeralds > Benches > Fast Food Wall
Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

Climb starts on the right side of the arete. Move up past two bolts to left side of arete. The crux is from the second to fourth bolts. Just getting on and moving off the ramp above the second bolt is "interesting". If it seems awkward try a different way.

Location

Climb is the last climb on the right side of Fast Food Wall on the obvious arete. Easiest approach is to continue up the trail past the base of Kudos cliff left.

Protection

11 bolts plus mussey hooks at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Entering the first slab/mantle crux
[Hide Photo] Entering the first slab/mantle crux
Moving off the ramp toward the 4th bolt
[Hide Photo] Moving off the ramp toward the 4th bolt
At the 4th bolt on "Too Much Good Stuff". Switching my feet in preparation to clip
[Hide Photo] At the 4th bolt on "Too Much Good Stuff". Switching my feet in preparation to clip

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] An awesome climb that will challenge your bag of tricks- some arete climbing, some crimpy face climbing, a short dihedral, and a splitter hand crack for a few moves.

The climbing itself was some of my favorite at the Emeralds. But be warned, because of all the features and the fact that your belayer can't see you after the 4th bolt, it can feel pretty sketchy at times. Also, there was a ton of growth/dirt on key holds since this climb doesn't look well trafficked. Sep 26, 2016
Brad J
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Mike

Thx for the comments.

We agree and that's why it got it's name...:-)

Brad and John Sep 26, 2016
Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely an appropriate name!

This route- and everywhere else at The Emeralds- was very well bolted. This was my first trip there, but I'll be coming back for more :) Sep 26, 2016
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] If you get into the growth and dirt, you are off route, especially at the jam crack. There you can easily cheat and stay right in the crud but why would you want to avoid a beautiful jam crack? Nov 24, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Meadow Vista
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The climb is forced in the sense that it is conecting a bunch of cool features with sometimes awkward climbing. But it's definitely out of the ordinary compared to most face climbs in the area. I thought the route was fun and I didn't have to get in the munge/choss on the right. Sep 26, 2017
Brad J
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Interesting comments on this climb. While the climb could have gone more left we wanted to include the crack because it's not often that you get more than a jam or two at the Ems. As it is bolted now you do not have to move into the dirt to get to the crack, but we didn't clean that area of the climb much so it might be hard to tell where it actually goes. Next time we're out we'll go up and clean it and then wait for feedback before we rethink the bolting. This is a tough one to assess because the stars are all over the place and the truth is, we really like this climb. Kelley's comment is spot on, there are no other climbs like it at the Ems. Oct 18, 2017
[Hide Comment] We weren't to crazy about this one. Guess it worth doing once but wouldn't get on it again. Lower end as far as quality goes at Emeralds. Maybe Too Much Rope Drag would have been a more appropriate name. Aug 19, 2018
Suman Chakravartula
San Francisco
 
[Hide Comment] I think the setters of this route are creative geniuses. Super fun! Nov 5, 2018
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Suman Chakravartula is a very observant person. Feb 16, 2019
Colonel Mustard
demoted again
 
[Hide Comment] This is a fine route. It’s easy to avoid any crud (unless, you know, you’re secretly into that sort of thing). It’s varied. It was more fun than I remembered on the repeat. A bit soft at 11a maybe? Jul 23, 2019