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Unknown (Bolted Chimney)

5.8, Sport,  Avg: 2.9 from 47 votes
FA: unknown
Illinois > Jackson Falls > A. N Canyon > C. Beaver Wall Right

Description

Time to drop that brush and those Solutions and lace up your TC pros because what your lucky gym rat ass has just stumbled upon is a sport bolted chimney. Very forgiving for chimney climbing, and surprisingly quite enjoyable.

Crux is likely getting off the ground, otherwise things seem to get progressively easier the higher you get...depending on your body size of course.

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Can also be led on gear by squeezing farther in, which would make it almost an entirely separate route...

Location

The obvious bolted chimney to the right of two steep 5.9s. The third route to the right of "Spits or Swallows" 12a (The last route on the right side of the main Beaver Wall)

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Or gear if you want an extra challenge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pictured are the two unknown 5.9s and a couple of good-looking gentlemen. Just off-screen to the right is the unknown chimney 5.8.
[Hide Photo] Pictured are the two unknown 5.9s and a couple of good-looking gentlemen. Just off-screen to the right is the unknown chimney 5.8.
View from the top of the mud ramp near the anchors. last piece a little ways back.
[Hide Photo] View from the top of the mud ramp near the anchors. last piece a little ways back.
Local hero Jaime at the start, and likely the crux of the chimney. Things went better when she got turned around.
[Hide Photo] Local hero Jaime at the start, and likely the crux of the chimney. Things went better when she got turned around.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Tripp
Urbana, IL
 
[Hide Comment] Led this route on gear! You have to get further in, which means squeeze squeeze squeeze! Apr 30, 2018
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
 
[Hide Comment] Name suggestion: “Gift Horse.” Many will look it in the mouth until they start looking at long routes like Epinephrine and realize: “I have to do 300’ of THAT?” Great chimney practice! Dec 23, 2018
William Elliot
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Maybe it was having long arms but other than getting a directional in the bottom the gear stances didn't feel too squeezy for me. Super enjoyable and super secure lead. Mar 31, 2021