Type: Trad, 260 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 443 total · 11/month
Shared By: gavinsmith on Oct 20, 2015
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Located in a provincial park Details

Description

A Bon Echo classic, hands down.

p1: Scramble up the slab easily to its end, sticking towards the right side. Gear anchor. 5.3
p2: Move out left onto the face (look down, it's a fantastically exposed stance) and traverse left on good feet and somewhat crimpy hands. Use the pitons if you want, but at sometimes 50+ years old, they have a reputation for failure. Back them up. Continue to a right-facing corner and move up to a large ledge. Gear anchor (a variety of pitons are available as well). 5.6-5.7
p3: The big one. Move up the wall to climber's right on the ledge. Clip the bolt a few metres up, towards the end of the crux. The difficulty tapers off a bit, but is fairly sustained. Follow the weakness first up and slightly left to a tree, then up and right to the top. Belay on gear on a big ledge or continue to the top. 5.9+, realistically 10a/b at the crux.

Location

Sweet Dreams starts on the first pronounced slab ramp from the North end of the cliff.

Protection

Standard rack to #2 Camalot. Full set of nuts.

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