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Routes in Bon Echo

318 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Afternoon Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Birthday Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Boris' Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Conclusion T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cool Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fanny Hill T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Formication T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Front of the Pinnacle T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Garden Wall T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Jerry's Route T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Knob Hill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mac's Book T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mooning Boris T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Pine T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Paradise Lost T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Persuasion T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Groove T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Rose Tattoo, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saturday Night and Sunday Morning T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slab, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sunday Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Dreams T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Top Secret T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Vertigenous T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Winking Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Womb At The Top T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yellow Groove T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 260 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 218 total · 8/month
Shared By: gavinsmith on Oct 20, 2015
Admins: Dave Rone

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Located in a provincial park Details

Description

A Bon Echo classic, hands down.

p1: Scramble up the slab easily to its end, sticking towards the right side. Gear anchor. 5.3
p2: Move out left onto the face (look down, it's a fantastically exposed stance) and traverse left on good feet and somewhat crimpy hands. Use the pitons if you want, but at sometimes 50+ years old, they have a reputation for failure. Back them up. Continue to a right-facing corner and move up to a large ledge. Gear anchor (a variety of pitons are available as well). 5.6-5.7
p3: The big one. Move up the wall to climber's right on the ledge. Clip the colt a few metres up, towards the end of the crux. The difficulty tapers off a bit, but is fairly sustained. Follow the weakness first up and slightly left to a tree, then up and right to the top. Belay on gear on a big ledge or continue to the top. 5.9+, realistically 10a/b at the crux.

Location

Sweet Dreams starts on the first pronounced slab ramp from the North end of the cliff.

Protection

Standard rack to #2 Camalot. Full set of nuts.

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