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Routes in Rabbit Hole

Beast It S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bullet, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chocolate Bunny S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dogs That Bite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Geese In Flight S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
There She Goes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Sport, TR, 65 ft
FA: Mike Carrington
Page Views: 448 total, 17/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 20, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fun, easier-than-it-looks route (save for the start) that is definitely worth the effort. A stick clip is strongly advised unless you are somewhat tall or toprope it after leading one of the routes to the left.

The crux (to me) comes right off the start as you pull aboard fighting your right hand's feeling of being levered off the flat jug. Falling here without the bolt being clipped would...suck. Once aboard, the rest of the route is probably 5.8...and delightful...though folks who are short or who like lots of footholds may disagree. The roof looks intimidating, but it climbs much easier than you fear. FWIW, you can go right at the roof, but then it'd be hard to clip the bolt before the roof. Once above the roof, the difficulties evaporate as you smile from your efforts below. The finish is shared with the two routes to the left.

Also, note I've been told that some start this a bit to the left, traversing in, which can keep the start safer and easier. In addition, we TR'ed the right start. It is loose and unprotected but goes ~5.10.

Location

This is currently the 3rd route from the left and aims for a roof with a small, right-facing dihedral.

Protection

9 bolts, a stick clip, and a chained 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10b
Clipping the first bolt is not that hard. I started climbing on the right. At the roof above, there are great holds, but the moves are strenuous. I was feeling tired from earlier in the day, but the roof moves take strength. Not technically hard, but strength is required! Jun 17, 2016
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
The one thing that helped with the mid-route roof is to think bigger moves from jug to jug, not the little movements of a slab climber. For the start, I tried from the right...unclean and sketchy feeling. Addendum: I did it again and hand cleaned it. Still loose holds, but it goes ~5.10 R. I didn't try traversing in from the left. That might make the start feel easier. We started below the 1st bolt. Oct 21, 2015
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.10b
I thought the crux was pulling the roof. The bouldery start was tricky, but I was able to clip the first bolt pretty easily before losing touch with the ground. Oct 20, 2015