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Social Promotion

5.12d, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
FA: bolted by Matt Keefe, FA Jon LaValee 7/2005
New Hampshire > Rumney > Bonsai

Description

Social Promotion is likely the hardest route at Bonsai, and has a very separate style from the typical Rumney route. After you shake off the pump from A Slice of Life, give this one a try!

From a large jug at the second to last bolt of A Slice of Life move the right via bouldery moves on crimps to a massive horn jug and a fixed draw in the middle of a very steep face. From the horn the last crux boulder problem is either done as a huge throw to a good hold that flexes a little, or via incredible body tension and finger strength though a series of underclings and pinches.

Location

An intimidatingly steep face above a Slice of Life and Peer Pressure. Climb Slice of Life to the second to last bolt before breaking right to 2 more bolts of hard stuff.

Protection

Bolts, fixed draw at the crux.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Social Promotion
[Hide Photo] Social Promotion
Photo credit Lee Hansche, I just wanted to draw lines.
[Hide Photo] Photo credit Lee Hansche, I just wanted to draw lines.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] I think Matt Keefe did the FA. Not sure of the year. Oct 20, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Is there still a missing hanger on that one? Oct 20, 2015
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] I think matt bolted it but someone else got the FA... it's in the 2009 book...
And it looked like the hanger was missing to me but I'd have to get up close to see... that might just be a stub left over from bolting process Oct 21, 2015
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] You are right, Lee. Jon LaVallee got the FA 7/05. I should have noticed before though that the name is incorrect. This describes Social Promotion. Astral Projection Is the John Mallery route that starts up India and then finishes up the arete to the right, also 12d Oct 21, 2015
Tyson Miller
Lebanon, NH
[Hide Comment] Took a look at this today, and the last bolt is missing its hanger, so beware. May 27, 2016
Eli Buzzell
noco
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] I cleaned up the route, left a fixed draw at the crux, and replaced the missing hanger. Overall I'd say that I'm pretty impressed with the route, it should get done more. Think insanely sustained with a really hard sequence right at the end, me thinks its probably a big step above 12d. The anchor bolts are still good to go, and there is a chain with a lower off biner at the lip. Jul 10, 2019
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Thanks to Tommy Salami for cleaning the route and adding the missing hanger. I climbed Slice of Life 12a about 5 years ago and I was really pumped when I finished it. Because of that, I was not surprised to read Tommy's comment "insanely sustained".
It might not be that bad thanks to a pretty good kneebar rest at the start of the 12d section. I also found a solid beta that made the end of the route quite easy. I didn't send it because Slice of Life was wet but I came very close to sending the top part. I think it is fair to call it 5.12d. Jul 14, 2019
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Tommy, it is a right knee bar that you set your foot high and drop your knee on the ramp. I also do a left knee bar to start the 12d section to get to the jug from which you clip your sling. The crux for me comes right after this clip. I get a pretty bad and sharp right hand tiny pocket. Left heel hook then left hand to an undercling higher. Right hand to a shelf/flake. I bump right hand to a good scoop. Finger lock eft hand in the flake then clip. Match the good scoop, set a right foot far and deadpoint to the huge clipping jug. I might skip the last bolt on my readpoint.
I don't think I could do the version staying low with a hard cross over to a left hand side pull. Jul 15, 2019
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Sent this route today and I confirm that 12d is fair. Sep 15, 2019
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] This thing is giving me a run for my money. Just spent my 3rd day trying it and I fell 2 moves from the top. I am finding I like it more every day however, so it is well worth the effort... just might want to nudge the grade up a smidge perhaps ;) Jun 1, 2023
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Sent it today. 5.13a for me. Love the climbing. Would recommend, but still pretty sharp, so climb in control if possible. Jun 11, 2023
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Will McFarland found MUCH easier beta for the top. From the last rest jug halfway out the overhang, instead of going up and right to the bad hold, go up left hand to an undercling (hopefully it doesn't break...). Right hand goes up to vertical slot sidepull thing, then big left hand move straight up to jug (not the very chalked flake on the right side of this rail). Then do normal traverse right to finish. This beta puts the climb easily in 12d territory, and might even be 12c, who knows. Oct 15, 2023
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Video of easier beta: instagram.com/reel/Cyj5oZ_u… Oct 24, 2023