Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rick Wheeler & James Wilson 1970
Page Views: 990 total · 26/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Oct 19, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Unbelievable chickenheads, knobs, plates & horns for 600'! A true jungle-gym in the outdoors. From a ledge high on the left side of Soaring Eagle Tower, choose your path up a sea of holds. Many variations are possible, all in the 5.6-5.8 range. One of the most fun easy romps out there!

Protection

A dozen or more slings for knobs and horns. There are almost no cracks for gear placements on this route, but maybe bring a few small-med cams and a half set of stoppers. Belays may be difficult to arrange; choose the best horns you can find!

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Wow, beautiful rock. Interesting that this rock is on the Eastside because it looks like the crazy featured stuff that occurs in the Southern Sierra (Shuteye, King's Canyon, etc.) Cool to know that this exists. Oct 20, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.6 R
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.6 R
it's a looong approach for 2.5 pitches.... that said - what a fun route! starts off as mediocre and keeps on getting better. definitely not a good route for your newbie 5.6 leader. the grade is 5.6 (picking the easiest way), but the runouts and consequences are real. i would say i would have decked from my first two slings. yes, bring a LOT of slings - thin spectra is great. i brought 4 double length runners and roughly 10 singles. would have liked to have more doubles. brought a rack of half a dozen cams from 3/8 to 2" and placed all of them at least once. could have easily gone without the #1 and #2 camalot and replaced those with a green and yellow alien. brought half a dozen nuts, placed one, could have done without any. the climbing gets increasingly more fun, P2 is stellar. know how to tie off chickenheads, frequently that's the only pro you get for 30-40'! pick your belays carefully, there are few cracks. note: we used gear exclusively for all 3 of our belays. after 2.5-3 pitches you can rappel off a tree to climbers left with a single 70m rope (barely makes it,knot ends). Mar 31, 2018