Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||Max Schon & Jimmy?|
|Page Views:||576 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Griffin on Oct 18, 2015|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
It starts on a ledge that is most easily accessible by rappelling into it. You start by climbing up a crack that's not the greatest rock, but the gear seems decent. At this point, the climbing starts to become difficult, and there is a funky place to protect that I couldn't find a good gear placement with besides a green Omega cam. While protected by a fairly good cam placement, but not the best rock, pull on some shallow but positive finger locks that lead to a good stance A little higher in the splitter a #6 stopper and a #0.3 BD cam went in pretty well after digging out the placements. At this point, the crack turns into a seam, which is probably protectable, but hard to place gear on. I found some really fun, positive-feeling face holds to the left of the seam, which were really committing and far apart. Those couple of moves lead to a flared hand jam and some possible air time over marginal gear. Pull the flared hand jam to a jug! You can relax a little and finally place a textbook HB placement, which I believe was a #4 HB. You climb a little higher, and the granite crack eases off and becomes a fantastic splitter from fingers to fist jams.
This is the only granite splitter I have climbed in the Durango area. It is unique to the area.
I headpointed this climb, with some traffic it would probably clean up well. I thought rope soloing the route was really fun, quick, and easy to set up. It helped me to plan the gear out before leading it.