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Routes in East Side

420 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beowulf S,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Brady's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flat Track S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Girl's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunslinger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Grail S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Interfearon S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Jack Frost S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Lemon Crack Climb T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Lemon Drop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mexican Burrito S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pyromania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasta Man!! S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sand Dollar, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Simonizer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Soul Kitchen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sylas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Warmup 1 aka Bam Bam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We The People S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Woods' Cherry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Max Schon & Jimmy?
Page Views: 340 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ben Griffin on Oct 18, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a good splitter for Durango standards. It has a little bit of an odd ball location, but this is a fun, traditional challenge.

It starts on a ledge that is most easily accessible by rappelling into it. You start by climbing up a crack that's not the greatest rock, but the gear seems decent. At this point, the climbing starts to become difficult, and there is a funky place to protect that I couldn't find a good gear placement with besides a green Omega cam. While protected by a fairly good cam placement, but not the best rock, pull on some shallow but positive finger locks that lead to a good stance A little higher in the splitter a #6 stopper and a #0.3 BD cam went in pretty well after digging out the placements. At this point, the crack turns into a seam, which is probably protectable, but hard to place gear on. I found some really fun, positive-feeling face holds to the left of the seam, which were really committing and far apart. Those couple of moves lead to a flared hand jam and some possible air time over marginal gear. Pull the flared hand jam to a jug! You can relax a little and finally place a textbook HB placement, which I believe was a #4 HB. You climb a little higher, and the granite crack eases off and becomes a fantastic splitter from fingers to fist jams.

This is the only granite splitter I have climbed in the Durango area. It is unique to the area.

I headpointed this climb, with some traffic it would probably clean up well. I thought rope soloing the route was really fun, quick, and easy to set up. It helped me to plan the gear out before leading it.

Location

Park at the East parking area, and head straight to the river from there. You will run into a cliff line in 5 minutes, follow the cliff line until you find bolts and chain anchors.

Protection

Offset and standard stoppers and a set of BD cams from #0.3 to #4. Bring doubles of fingers to thin hands. There are two anchor bolts at the top of the cliff.
Jimmy and I did this before any other routes were put up at Lemon. We always thought it needed a bolt down low. While hand drilling the anchor, I unearthed a mosquito nest and lost a quart of blood finishing the last bolt. May 18, 2016
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
 
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
 
I just remembered, there is a #4 BD stopper that I placed that went into the crack well right in the middle of the crux, but while fiddling with it for a long time on top rope, I found I could pull it out of the bottom of the crack. If that piece blows, the route would probably get an R rating. Oct 22, 2015
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
 
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
 
Any info on this climb would be helpful. What is it called? and who did the first ascent? Oct 18, 2015