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Routes in Kudos Left

Ambushed in the Night T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Duppy Conquer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Get out of I-rete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kreutzer , The S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kudos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Step into the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: First documented ascent by Chris Kreutzer, October 2015, with micro cams and petons
Page Views: 1,007 total · 33/month
Shared By: Chris Kreutzer on Oct 16, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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18 Opinions

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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

The first few moves, getting off the ground, can be a little bouldery, but the real crux is found just after the second bolt. There are a number of good side pulls and a few juggier holds throughout the route that are not easily seen, but come in handy in some of the thinner sections. All bolts can be clipped from a good clipping stance and should be within a reasonably easy reach for some of the shorter leaders. This route shares the anchor bolts with Get Out of I-ret.

Location

This route ascends the obvious blocky arĂȘte between Kudos Left and Kudos Right. Rappel using the bolted anchor on Get Out of I-ret.

Protection

There are five bolts, all colored dark grey to blend in with the rock. All bolts should be easy to reach from a solid clipping stance, even for the shorter leaders.

Photos

Thanks Kaiser Sogay, the name was totally presumptuous and that is sort of why I did it. If you or anyone else knows of anyone who climbed this before myself and wants to claim the FA I would love to ask if bolting it is cool with them and what the real name is. Until then I say it gets my obnoxious last name stamped on it. I welcome anyone's comments, this rock is the communities resource and MP is easy to edit, bolts are not so easy, so speak up! Oct 24, 2015
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
Chris: Good that you put up this route. I like the name. When you spend the money and effort to put up a new route, you get to name it, even if you want to name it with your social security number. There has been no claim of an ascent herein or elsewhere so I say the route is fair game and an asset for the area. Just remember, much of the time when we put a new route up, there will usually be others on the sidelines that will complain. Nov 2, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
The FA accusations are out of line. It's easy to say it was done before, but it could just have easily been overlooked. Somebody putting up 5.11+ trad isn't necessarily interested in what was likely a moss-covered staircase.

My beef with the route is it's ho hum, a bit awkward, and the traversing nature requires you either have somebody follow to clean or that you clean the first couple draws of the anchors, then climb the 5.9 to the right and clean the rest (as we did). I just climbed it to check it out, probably wouldn't revisit it, but it could be a fun adventure for a budding leader. Oct 20, 2016
Brad J  
Although this climb had been free soloed several times by Mike, Josh and crew no one minded that Chris took the initiative to bolt it and claim the first accent. However, it would be the ethical thing to add his belayer to the FA team. Her involvement was just as important to the final result as the leader. Dec 4, 2016

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