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Trouble in Paradise
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 23
votes
Routes in The Boneyard
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Abby Gabby Goo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Armed Insurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bangers and Mash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Captain Blondie Sinks The Ship S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Cindarella S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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First Fast Draw, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flying Serpents S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Glide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gym Jones Approved S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Haggis, Neeps and Taties S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hematopoiesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hijacked Project S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hoosierheights.com S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hot Fudge Sunday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Last Slow Draw, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lucy Goosey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lula Mae T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Oink! Oink! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One-Armed Bandit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Petey's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Renegade T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Son of a Wanted Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stealing Melinda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Surfing the Whale's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sweet Tater S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tanduay Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tao Bato S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Trouble in Paradise S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Warrior's Path, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Winona T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Dustin Stephens, 2014 |
| Page Views: | 2,437 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Oct 16, 2015 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
Start off a boulder in good holds but no feet due to the undercut roof start but never fear, good crimps allow you to get established and get feet up. Crank great holds on steep rock as you head up the wall. A bulge midway serves up some additional cruxy moves. But it's not over yet. Fight the pump clock on more nice pockets and edges to the anchors.
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