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Routes in 13 - Knobby Wall

Flake, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Keep the Muscle, Lose The Fat S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meltdown S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Right Flake T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shaft of the Penetrator TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unnamed Boulder Problem S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 126 total, 5/month
Shared By: Kenan on Oct 16, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is the rightmost of the two obvious (chalked) right-leaning flakes at Knobby Wall. Start on a nice jug in the flake and follow it via fingers to a rest stance about two thirds of the way up (5.10). Make a transition to a right-hand flake and then fire the crimpy 2-move crux to a sloper jug at the lip (5.11).

Protection

3 bolts can be clipped to left of the flake (shared with the route Changos Cabrones). But this flake can also be led entirely on gear (finger-sized cams) or TR'd (beware of the huge swing potential into boulders if you fall in the first half). If you're near your limit, you'll probably want to clip the bolts and place one or two pieces for additional protection.

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