Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Cade Loyd 1990 |
Page Views: | 1,195 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Vlad S on Oct 15, 2015 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ for the latest information on visiting Yosemite.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The absolute classic of the area! Mostly a crack climb with bolts for pro. Steep and very pumpy with multiple cruxes, this one is not over until you clip the anchor. When approaching the crag, this will be the most obvious line on the lower tier following discontinuous cracks on the black headwall. The route to the left that shares the anchor is Black Fly 13b. Once you get to the base walk around to the left for 40 feet. The short 15 ft approach pitch will become obvious climbing dirty jugs past a pin and a bolt to a 3 bolt anchor on a good ledge.
Except for the opening crux past the first 3 bolts, this route could be entirely gear protected without being too run-out or blocking crucial jams with gear.
Except for the opening crux past the first 3 bolts, this route could be entirely gear protected without being too run-out or blocking crucial jams with gear.
Photos
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