Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Cade Loyd 1990
Page Views: 840 total · 16/month
Shared By: Vlad S on Oct 15, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The absolute classic of the area! Mostly a crack climb with bolts for pro. Steep and very pumpy with multiple cruxes, this one is not over until you clip the anchor. When approaching the crag, this will be the most obvious line on the lower tier following discontinuous cracks on the black headwall. The route to the left that shares the anchor is Black Fly 13b. Once you get to the base walk around to the left for 40 feet. The short 15 ft approach pitch will become obvious climbing dirty jugs past a pin and a bolt to a 3 bolt anchor on a good ledge.

Except for the opening crux past the first 3 bolts, this route could be entirely gear protected without being too run-out or blocking crucial jams with gear.

Location

Lower tier

Protection

10 bolts, optional green to red alien (3-4 pieces) for the upper half, where bolts are further appart

Photos

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