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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> K. Public Sani…
> Upper Tier
Substance Abuse
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in Upper Tier
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Afterburner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Afterburner Variation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Big Easy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Higher than you T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Retrobolted and Super Fun! T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sanitary Engineer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Solid Waste T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Substance Abuse S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Temple of Doom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Total Way-ist S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tucker's Proud Rock Climb S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Unknown and Super Fun! S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown but Splitter S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Waste Not, Whip Not S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Fosburg 1991 |
| Page Views: | 766 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Vlad S on Oct 15, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route follows the arete on the far left side of the upper tier. The start is complete junk and has a few loose death blocks that pose a serious threat to the belayer. Scrambling up to a choss covered ledge and building a gear anchor (#1 and #2 camalots) might be the best way to get on it. There are two hidden bolts leading to the 2 bolt anchor at the start of the arete about 70 ft from the ground (easy to spot), but that is a terrible place to belay. Unfortunately, the rock doesn't get a whole lot better for the rest of the climb, but if you got this far, at least you won't die. Pull some reachy big moves on terrible flaky rock for 60 ft. When lowering, make sure to stop at the hanging anchor, rethread the rope and continue lowering from there with a 60 m rope.
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