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You Asked For It

5.10c X, Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 4 from 6 votes
FA: John Bachar and Ron Peers 7/81
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Medlicott Dome > W Face, Right
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Description

The appropriately named "You Asked For It" ascends the largest black streak on the right end of Medlicott. It features enormous runouts over sustained and difficult climbing; another bold statement route from Bachar.

There are two options for the approach pitch. Both end on a broad ledge below the steep, imposing headwall.

1) Wander directly up the black streak on grainy rock with funky climbing and poor protection. 5.10

2) Start further right and climb a giant left rising flake at 5.7. This is likely the better option.

Pitch 1 After the approach pitch, set a belay to the left behind a good flake with 3/4" to 1.25" cams. Work up and right on balancy, cranker moves to the first bolt at 15 feet. Carry on with more of the same to the second bolt at 45 feet. Continue right to better holds then back left and eventually the belay. This is a very serious pitch with ledge fall potential for a good portion of it. "5.10c" X, 75 feet

Pitch 2 Head straight up off the belay wondering where the holds went to the only bolt at 30 feet. Continue up on smeary, difficult slab climbing to a stance ten feet from the belay. Compose yourself and make one last hard move to the ledge and belay. Again, a very serious pitch. "5.10c" X, 115 feet

Pitch 3 Head up and right off the belay to an out of sight bolt 40 feet out. Continue up another 40 feet or so to a bizarre hole that takes a #3 camalot. Run it out another 50 feet to the belay. 5.10 X, 130 feet

Join "One Toke Over the Line" to the top and walk off or rap the route with two ropes.

Location

Follow the approach for the right end of the cliff. When you reach the base of the cliff, head right for a hundred yards or so.

Protection

2 bolts for p1, 1 bolt for p2, 1 bolt and a #3 camalot for p3. The approach pitch takes gear from 1/2" to 2.5".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Medlicott Dome:  <br>
The Bachar Yerian is the leftmost black streak and You Asked For It is the rightmost (and widest).
[Hide Photo] Medlicott Dome: The Bachar Yerian is the leftmost black streak and You Asked For It is the rightmost (and widest).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

john strand
southern colo
  5.10+ X
[Hide Comment] Brilliant is all I can say Sep 21, 2016
Jon Clark
Planet Earth
  5.10c X
[Hide Comment] John,

I concur. It's about time someone else chimed in on this one. A very memorable route. Sep 22, 2016
[Hide Comment] Still get the adrenalin twitch thinking about this one. As if it weren't spicy enough, I forgot the #3 cam for pitch 3. Jul 17, 2018
Ranger Matt
Yosemite NP
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know the history of the FA. Did he inspect any of this on rappel before the FA? Or drill any on rappel? Hard to see how he drilled this on lead. Poor stances with not much for hooking either. Sep 3, 2021
Jon Clark
Planet Earth
  5.10c X
[Hide Comment] Matt,

Bachar established this ground up as he did all of his routes. No inspection on rappel was performed. I believe he used hooks for the two bolts on pitch 1. The bolt on p2 and the bolt on p3 were drilled from stances. As I recall, Bachar discussed the route in the article/interview "Johnny Rock" published in Climbing magazine October 1986. Sep 4, 2021
Ranger Matt
Yosemite NP
[Hide Comment] Thanks Jon
Top roped this master piece this summer. Mind blowing what Bachar was capable of in his prime. So insecure and run out. That guy was on another level.
Def wanna track down that article Sep 5, 2021
Ryan Wood
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] How are the condition of the bolts on this? Mar 19, 2022
Drew Rollins
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Greg Barnes and I replaced the original bolts in 2005 after Greg talked with Bachar about it. We used 3/8" stainless hardware and all the original holes. Should be good to go! Dec 10, 2022
[Hide Comment] How many ascents has this seen? Aug 6, 2023