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Routes in The Heart Chamber

Chamber Life aka Found Your Face S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dizzy Spell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Master and Commander S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Palpitation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rally Monkey S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Show Me State, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Show me the Master S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Snack Pack S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chad Davis
Page Views: 139 total, 5/month
Shared By: Richard Noel on Oct 13, 2015
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


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Description

The anomalous start on sharp/small holds and incut feet will leave climbers wondering if they've actually started a 5.11 pitch. Hard problems separated by good holds lead to a long run to the anchor if you don't bring trad gear.

Pull the off the ground crux and continue up to a sweet right-angling flake that leads to some good jugs. Figure out the next sequence and then make use of a banana hammock no-hands rest to the right if you need it. Otherwise continue up the dihedral on the on jugs to a left trending run out to the anchors. You probably don't want to take that fall.
Fun three-dimensional climbing.

Location

To the right of 'Master and Commander'. If you are staring at the rock and thinking "How the hell am I supposed to even get off the ground?" then you're in the right spot.

Protection

Seven bolts. Pro can be placed after the last bolt and before the anchor to eliminate the possibility of a huge side swinging whipper. Not too sure of the sizes you could place, so I'm not going to guess.

Photos

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K Gustafson
  5.11c
K Gustafson  
  5.11c
A black diamond #2 will protect the finish. The yellow omega pacific link cam would be perfect! Oct 14, 2015