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Routes in Cleopatra's Needle Area

Angel Wing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Angel Wing- Oreo Girls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 X
Cleopatra's Needle, East Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Navajo Needle West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Venus Needle, East Face T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1-2 PG13
Venus Needle, West Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Type: Trad, Aid, 290 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Don Doucette, Art Howells, Steve Cheyney, January 1971
Page Views: 265 total, 10/month
Shared By: Kevin Kent on Oct 13, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Climb 3 (or 4) pitches up the middle of the west face of Navajo Needle. Mostly aiding; however, there a few spots of free climbing. Go with locals or get permission from the locals who live nearby. Currently there is one man who lives across Todlito wash who is very friendly and receptive to respectful climbers.

P1: 5.9+ C1. Start in a right facing finger crack. After 15 feet there is a large horizontal recess with no spots for clean pro and not much in the way of holds. I stemmed high into this to place a very crucial black/red metolius offset cam. After this strenuous free move it's pretty crusier C1, trending left, with a crack switch, to a sort of poor anchor about 90' up.

P2: C2. Continue up left facing corner, pleasant C1-C2, going up the left side of a shield at the top of the pitch and belaying on a nice ledge. 100'.

P3: 5.8 C2 Start up V-slot off ledge with a strenuous combination of free and aid. Crack widens and requires a few moderate free moves/mantles before a ledge with an intermediate anchor. From there very cruiser C1 up splitter #4 OW to summit. 100'

Descent. Rappel the route with 2 double rope rappels. Summit anchor was beefed up 10/2015.

Location

Right behind Venus Needle.

Protection

Triple set or more of cams from purple tcu-#4, 2 sets of stoppers. 1 offset cam was crucial for P1, otherwise I didn't really use any. A new #5 C4 was nice for the top of P3.

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