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Fractured Fissure
5.10d,
Trad, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
FA: John Long, Brian Pohorff, October 1971, FFA: (TR) John Long, 1981, FL: Todd Gordon & Don Reid, May 1998
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Cyclops Rock
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Steep double crack system with juggy finish.
Location
Northwest face The start is at the top of a gully, one gully over from The Eye. Anchors provide a quick exit for The Eye as well.
Protection
Standard rack, 2 bolts with long chains are available to rap off or take the easy walk off.
[Hide Photo] Looking up Fractured Fissure (5.10d), Joshua Tree NP
[Hide Photo] Looking up at Fractured Fissure after using the rap rings. Probably one of the airiest raps in the Park.
Seattle, WA
1) It's overhanging, so a fall results in a significant swing and difficulties getting back on route.
2) Although the swing is super fun, I would periodically inspect the rope and/or anchor extension because it ends up rubbing against the rock face at the top - could break if left unhecked for too many swings.
3) Rope friction against the rock face at the top makes it hard for the belayer to pull the rope. I extended the anchor about 5 feet and it still wasn't enough. I would extend it 10 feet next time, but make sure the extension is redundant and/or very sturdy because it will rub against the rock face during falls. Feb 21, 2016