Avg: 2 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 185 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||256 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Flaco Flores on Oct 12, 2015|
DescriptionThis is a very unique and interesting route! You start up the first pitch on the far right side of the El Nino Wall. Follow the glue in bolts up and to the right (towards the arete) and traverse towards the anchors for Lost At Sea. Once you traverse right far enough you start to climb up a few bolts to the end of the first pitch (5.8). There are set draws on the first pitch so cleaning the route isn't a nightmare. From there you start the second pitch and continue to traverse slightly right towards the arete and the roof (aka the crux of the route). After pulling the roof you have some gorgeous climbing and the best views in South Piney Canyon, take some time to enjoy them!
LocationThis route is on the far right of the El Nino wall (Black/Slabby wall) that traverses right to the arete. It starts just to the right of the Juan De Fuca route.
ProtectionThere are fixed draws on the first pitch (5.8) to make cleaning the route more manageable. You will want to bring 10 draws with you for this route to do the second pitch. It is highly recommended that you climb this route with a 70 meter rope. You can climb it with a true 60 meter rope, but it involves rappelling off the top anchors to the lower anchors and maxing out your rope lengths to the ground. When lowering from the lower anchors make sure to put knots at the end of your rope and lower over the overhanging section of The Bermuda Triangle wall and onto the massive boulder beneath. Get ready for one of the most fun rappels you can do while sport climbing. ***Make sure you have a knot in the end of your rope when belaying the entire route with a 60 meter rope.
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