Penguins in Bondage (submitted as Unknown 3)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 40.45374, -105.3704 |
| FA: | Tom Kohlmann, Cathy Capanera, Dennis Jenkins |
| Page Views: | 1,089 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Oct 12, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per Julie Nelson: the forest is closed due to after fire concerns in this area until June 30, 2021. There is a sign at the trailhead about the closure. See the US Forest Service website for further updates.
Previously: per Bruce Hildenbrand: Storm Mountain Road is open to all.
Per Hank C: the Storm Mt./Cedar Park area is closed to locals-only traffic for the time being due to wildfire concerns. We were turned away by a park ranger this morning (9/12/2020).
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is a fun arete climb with a steep crux at the 4th bolt. The rock in this area of the Lion's Den is very crystalline and sharp. Wear and tear on your finger tips may vary.
Location
This route is about 200 feet uphill from Unknown 2 on the south side of the gully. As another point of reference, it is about 100-200 feet downhill from Hole in the Wall on the other side of the same gully.
This is a striking face/arete on the south side of the gully.
Rap 80' to the start.



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