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5.9+, Trad, 65 ft,  Avg: 3.2 from 23 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Zion NP > Mt Carmel Tunnel > Kung Fu Theater
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Wonderful right-trending finger crack full of lie back and edging moves with an interesting top out. I asked some locals about the name, they didn't know it. This is a merely a suggestion for now.


This crack is a few paces west of Enter the Dragon.


A single bolt protects the first 12 feet, then cams up to one inch. I placed multiple .75 camalots. Nice bolted chain anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Molly nearing the top
[Hide Photo] Molly nearing the top
close up of the crack
[Hide Photo] close up of the crack
en route
[Hide Photo] en route
almost to the chains
[Hide Photo] almost to the chains
Ready for some sweet layback action?
[Hide Photo] Ready for some sweet layback action?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Gavin
[Hide Comment] Nice I always walked by that thing, and wondered what it was. Those blocks at the bottom were incentive enough to keep walking! Dec 16, 2015
[Hide Comment] I am a relatively new trad leader and I found this route very fun and safe. There are a number of solid foot holds to utilize when placing gear. In contrast, while visiting Zion I also climbed some 5.7 and 5.8 cracks at the Practice Cliffs, which I found much more challenging than this climb. Additionally, the bolt located at the bottom of the climb was really helpful in figuring out our location. Jun 14, 2016