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Routes in Paria Point

Futura, The 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3
Sunlight Buttress T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Senior 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4
Wind Sand & Stars T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
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Type: Trad, 1200 ft, 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: FA: Jeff Lowe, Catherine Destivelle. May 1991 FFA: Jeff Lowe, Steve Petro, Lisa Gnade May 1992
Page Views: 1,734 total · 46/month
Shared By: greg t on Oct 11, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Road Work in Kolob Canyon Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Hype: With reported rock better than Moonlight; Jeff Lowe states: “As a free climb, Wind Sand and Stars would be among the very finest long climbs in North America.”

I can only speak from my own experience, but I would have to say; as an easily accessible adventure style route, Wind Sand and Stars is an excellent route. The rock quality may not be as good as moonlight, but definitely exceeded my expectations, and far surpassed many other adventure style routes in the Zion area I have been on. There are many large runouts; mainly on good quality face climbing. The climbing is generally pretty easy where there is no pro. As far as the crux pitches, they are pretty stout. Insecure hard technical stemming, felt much harder than say, the crux pitch of moonlight. Although they can be easily aided through with exception to the first crux pitch, in which you’ll either have to pull some aid trickery or just send it.

P1: ( 5.10 ) Up, left, up

P2: ( 5.10 ) Up and left via face and cracks to a finger and hand crack below the pillar. Traverse right to a stem box. Left at bolt on a ledge to the anchor.

P3: ( 5.9 R ) Long Chimney. Hand and finger size gear.

P4: ( 5.10- ) Up to .5 & .75 crack. Take a right, traverse face in front of large boulder. Gear Anchor

P5: ( 5.12 / 5.11 C2 PG13 ) Hard stemming up to a piton. Crux is before and after piton. Hanging Belay

P6: ( 5.12 ) An extremely short pitch. Out the V-slot and onto the face via more hard stemming. 2 solid bolts protect the crux. Bolted anchor on ledge

Combine P5 & P6 to avoid awkward hanging belay

P7: ( 5.12 ) Long pitch, lots of bolts. More hard stemming to easier and fun 5.11 face. Skip bolted anchor and continue up to large ledge w/ gear anchor. ( #1 & #2 helpful at anchor )

P8: ( 5.9 R ) From ledge climb the dirty crack system to the east to a small ledge where you can face traverse around the large arête. ( there might be a better option of using the crack system in the large corner, but I don’t think you can traverse around the arête from that point ) Once around the arête, face climb up to a bolt, then right to a crack, then back left to a piton, then up the stemming corner / face to a crack system in a right facing corner. The crack system will lead to the original anchor, a fixed nut and a piton on a slopping ledge. A much better option is to stop at the ledge on the left right before the original anchor and build a gear anchor.

P9: ( 5.9 R ) Face climb up to the base of the left facing corner with large crack.

P10: ( 5.11- ) Climb the crack on the face and crack in the left facing corner above the belay linking them via face climbing. Climb the bolted face above the crack. Climb past the tree and up to an anchor. Anchor = Piton and hangerless bolt. Use a stopper wire to sling bolt.

P11: ( 5.6 ) Climb patina rail out left, then up and back right to a gear belay.

A 70m rope might barely reach to link p10 & 11 to avoid belay, but it would be a stretch. There aren’t any good gear options for belays before the top of P11.

Location

Approach: Standard south fork approach. Take a left at the second drainage on your left that will lead up to the base of Wind Sand & Stars. There is a faint trail that generally follows the drainage.

Decent: After the last pitch walk up, left then down and back left. There is a large cairn at the start of the rappels.
5 repels off the west face of Paria Point.
At the first rappel, the next set of anchors is to the north.
At the base of Paria Point you can scramble down some 3rd and 4th class ( to the west I’m assuming )
or you can skirt the base of the cliff heading south via 3 more 60m rappels. You’ll have to fight the rope on your way down, but all the pulls are clean and there is very little loose rock. This will lead you pretty close to the base of Spider Finger.

Protection

2x green c3 - #2 camalot
1x #3
1x set of stoppers
many long runners and draws
2x 60m ropes

Photos

bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Fantastic write-ups! Thanks for your addition, this one's been on my list for years. I recall hearing tales of a hollow dangerous giant flake somewhere down low...did you encounter this? Also, would a 3/8 nut and hanger be good to fix the anchor on pitch 10? Oct 12, 2015
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
  5.12
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
  5.12
Thanks. Hope I wasn’t stepping on any toes by adding this. I just thought it was a great line that deserves more attention. Hollow flakes? Of course. Dangerous? Not necessarily. The overall rock quality was better than expected, but you still need use your desert rat skills. Use everything, trust nothing. There are also a lot of old pitons and star drives for belays. All part of the fun. As far as the hangerless bolt on P10, the bolt is sticking pretty far out and is fairly rusted. It has a nut, but no hanger. I girth-hitched it with a stopper. Seemed ok. Another option could be to build a belay before the hangerless bolt belay. There is a small ledge on P10 before the tree. Some of the tat on the rappels could be replaced. Enjoy!

Also, the route doesn't get sun till mid to late morning, and the crux pitches stay in the shade till a little after noon. So with an early start you can stay in the shade most of the day. Oct 13, 2015
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
  5.12
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
  5.12
There is a good article on this route in Rock and Ice Issue 98 written by Craig Luebben. There is a photo of the large flake on pitch 4. They foot traversed in front of it while mildly hugging the flake. Seems scary. I hand traversed in front of it completely avoiding touching the flake all together.
Side note: its more of a boulder held up by stacked dirt than a loose flake. Sounds worse than it is. Feb 28, 2017
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
  5.12
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
  5.12
Rock quality is pretty standard Zion. I did not think it was overly scary, or super classic. A solid second tier Zion route. Cruxes are wild! Sep 26, 2017

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