Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Team Mabe, Oct. 2015
Page Views: 153 total · 4/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Oct 10, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Excellent and dramatic movement for such a short route. The tight finger crack starts from the lower of the tiered ledges. The hardest moves are off the belay. Enjoy the finger jamming up to the heart-shaped double chockstones and crank to your right. (going straight up is a bad idea). Finish with some thoughtful moderate face climbing moves, using double incipient cracks.

Location

The nice tiered ledge is the landmark for this and surrounding routes; these are the belays of our wives. Start from the lower tier.

NOTE: The finger crack that leads directly above the upper tier is a bit harder and dead ends into some very precarious large blocks, or safely finish with neighboring routes.

Protection

a couple of micro cams, as well as a Blue, Yellow, Orange Metolius work nicely, and a #.75-#1C4. Belay on either the upper or lower tier with stoppers or small cams.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
One of the best route names I've seen in a while! Apr 18, 2016